Plaid: a timeless classic

Whether it's traditional tartan or bold contemporary takes, plaid consistently returns to dominate runways and streetwear. For the Fall/Winter 2024 season, designers have once again revisited this iconic print, reimagining it through the lens of modern trends.

Plaid carries profound historical significance. It has been embraced by various cultures as a symbol of tradition and national identity, demonstrating how fashion adapts over time while remaining deeply rooted in its heritage.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Saint Laurent

Scottish tartan is one of the most notable examples of plaid's cultural importance. This iconic pattern, composed of intersecting stripes of varying widths and colors, profoundly connects to Scotland's clan system.

Each tartan was unique and represented a specific clan or family, serving as a means of identification and a symbol of unity. Furthermore, tartan often expressed cultural pride, especially during times when national identity was under threat. Today, tartan remains a vital part of Scotland's heritage, featured in both traditional attire and contemporary fashion, bridging the past and present.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Burberry

Plaid, however, isn’t confined to Scottish tradition. Historically, it has appeared in countless forms, from checkered patterns in European peasant clothing to intricate textile designs in Asia. In the 20th century, plaid evolved into a universally recognized motif thanks to its extensive use in fashion.

From elegance to punk rebellion

The Chanel era: plaid as a symbol of femininity

French designer Coco Chanel was one of the first to introduce plaid into women's wardrobes, transforming it into a symbol of elegance. In the 1920s and 1930s, her tweed suits featuring small checkered patterns revolutionized fashion: clean cuts, practical fabrics, and sophisticated style redefined femininity. Despite the sturdy appearance of the materials, her designs retained a feminine essence, cementing plaid as a cornerstone of 20th-century fashion.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Chanel

Royal Elegance: Princess Diana’s influence

In the 1980s and 1990s, plaid reemerged in the spotlight thanks to Princess Diana. She skillfully adapted the classic print to her contemporary looks. One of her most iconic outfits was a glen plaid suit paired with minimalist accessories. It became a symbol of her style – elegant yet daring and independent.

Vivienne Westwood: plaid as a manifesto of freedom

Plaid underwent another transformation in the 1970s during the rise of punk culture. British designer Vivienne Westwood turned it into a symbol of rebellion against conservative norms. Traditionally associated with class and restraint, plaid gained a new meaning under Westwood’s creative direction. In collections such as Pirate (1981), Witches (1983), and Buffalo/Nostalgia of Mud (1982–1983), plaid skirts, cropped trousers, and suits became bold expressions of defiance. Her designs signified a break from conventional silhouettes, embracing freer and more eccentric forms.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Vivienne Westwood

Plaid elements on her runways were often paired with ripped fabrics, leather, and metal details, reflecting punk aesthetics – a spirit of revolution, rule-breaking, and a desire to disrupt traditional fashion norms. These daring experiments with plaid influenced the evolution of streetwear and remain an integral part of youth culture today.

Plaid Trends for 2024

For Fall/Winter 2024, plaid is once again at the forefront of collections by leading designers. Burberry presented plaid in vibrant, saturated hues on unconventional fabrics such as velvet and silk, reinterpreting its iconic pattern for a modern audience.

Prada showcased warm-toned plaids in their Fall/Winter collection. Known for its versatility, plaid seamlessly fits into this season's narrative, where designers blend classic elements with contemporary interpretations.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Prada

Versace offered a glamorous and edgy take on plaid, incorporating it into garments made of faux leather and velvet in bold, vivid colors.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Versace

Why does plaid remain timeless?

Plaid is one of those rare prints that works across all categories—from tailored suits to cozy coats and scarves. Its adaptability allows it to complement various styles and occasions. The print effortlessly transitions between seasons, securing its place as a wardrobe staple. For instance, a classic plaid suit in neutral tones exudes confidence and elegance, making it ideal for business meetings and office attire. A plaid coat or trench can be a stylish solution for fall collections.

Accessories such as scarves, bags, and hats featuring plaid patterns can elevate even the simplest outfits. A plaid shirt adds dynamism and a touch of casual chic to layered looks. This season, designers continue to champion bold plaid skirts with oversized prints. Paired with a basic sweater or tee, such skirts strike a balance between femininity and edginess.

Each season, designers update the pattern by experimenting with its scale, colors, and materials. This ensures plaid not only stays relevant to current trends but also helps create an individual style that remains timeless year after year. Plaid is not just a trendy print; it's a true classic.