Haute Couture Week. Day four

The final day of Haute Couture Week was a vibrant exclamation point in an intense fashion marathon. It stood out not only for its stunning collections but also for unexpected performances. At Germanier’s show, guests were greeted by Hello Kitty and Kuromi characters in custom brand looks, while the collection itself became an explosion of color, irony, and playful madness.

Jordan Roth closed this couture season with a daring performance, “Radical Acts of Unrelenting Beauty,” blurring the lines between theater, fashion, and art, turning garments into acts of self-revelation. His journey – from Met Gala red carpets to the runways of Thom Browne and Rahul Mishra – embodies transformation: in haute couture, he finds not just a costume, but a form of existence where each look is a manifesto of identity and beauty beyond convention.

Haute couture is evolving – today, it's no longer only about luxury, but also about freedom, creativity, and the courage to be oneself. What the next chapter will look like remains to be seen, but already it's clear: the new wave of designers is making the show schedule exciting, dynamic, and emotionally charged. Here's an overview of the most notable collections from the final couture day of the Fall–Winter 2025–2026 season:

ArdAzAei

ArdAzAei presented its fourth couture collection, “The Folded Sea,” in the former Fondation Cartier building in Paris. The fashion house explored the beauty and fragility of the underwater world, where each fold and drape echoes the rhythm of the ocean. The central motif was the sea urchin – a symbol of careful regard for marine ecosystems. In a palette of soft pinks, lavenders, and pastels, the designer conveyed the femininity and depth of the ocean. Pleats on corseted dresses evoked the flow of underwater currents, while airy mini dresses pulsed like delicate coral. Evening gowns, embroidered with tens of thousands of Swarovski crystals and beads, glowed like internal bioluminescence. Aquatic motifs continued in the details: silk macramé sea urchins curled around dresses, while a mini-cape composed of five voluminous pleated fans echoed their anatomy. Two types of shoes, featuring curved heels and metallic elements, complemented the fluid architecture of the looks. The collection’s final piece was adorned with organza printed with marine creatures beneath a layer of pleated lace, evoking the illusion of water in motion.

Rami Al Ali 

Rami Al Ali opened a new chapter in his career by joining the official calendar of the Fédération de la Haute Couture and by presenting the “Guardians of Light – The Living Craft of Damascus.” This collection was a personal tribute to Damascus, the city where the designer’s creative consciousness was born. Inspired by the architectural splendor of the Old City, Al Ali celebrates the vanishing artisanal heritage of his homeland. The collection exalts the beauty of carved doors, painted ceilings, and hidden courtyards once full of life. Graceful silhouettes mirror palace and mosque exteriors. Brocade glimmers with hand embroidery, sequins echo Eastern mosaics, and beads highlight mother-of-pearl-like inlays. Each dress and cloak becomes a talisman. The garments are not merely aesthetic expressions but acts of cultural preservation. The palette – plum, rose, gold, azure, alabaster – glows with the interplay of light and shadow, like memory itself.

Chochengco

Formerly known as Chocheng, the brand debuted under its new name with the collection “Grandmaster.” It embodies the concept of “conscious haute couture,” where luxury is defined not by flash but by philosophy. Each piece is handmade in London using only natural and vegan materials – from cotton bouclé to velvet. Designer Cho Cho Cheng has completely eliminated fur, replacing it with architectural waves of cotton organza. The palette – signature shades of fuchsia, lipstick red, and magenta – nods to the brand’s cinematic codes. This time, the inspiration came from Wong Kar-Wai’s film “The Grandmaster” – a story of the fusion between inner discipline and subtle sensuality. Through precise form, texture, and color work, the brand reinterprets traditional Eastern garments. Visual poetry blends with technical mastery, creating looks that feel lifted straight from an arthouse film reel.

Cheney Chan 

Designer Cheney Chan, who captivated audiences last season, returned to Paris with another breathtaking presentation. His garments are true works of art, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship, rich symbolism, and striking visual poetics. The collection “Seven Breaths” is a couture narrative of the seven stages in a bird’s life. From the first breath to symbolic death, each look reflects a key moment in the cycle. The “Birth” section features pristine white tones, downy textures, and delicate embroidery. “Dance” is filled with movement: fabrics react to each step, and metallic elements reference theatrical expression. In “Soar,” lightweight frameworks and canary feather simulations evoke a sense of ascent. “Defense” presents protective armor-like designs, encrusted with crystals, stiff lace, and shell-like structures. “Indulgence” plays with rich fabrics, cutouts, and pleating. “Sing” transmits sound through multilayered embroidery and graphic structuring. The cycle ends with “Death” – grayscale looks with disintegrating lace that symbolizes the dissolution of form and transition into another state.

Germanier 

Kevin Germanier believes fashion should be not only beautiful but inspiring: light without being shallow, dreamy yet grounded. His new collection, “The Players,” was a burst of joy, boldness, and color chaos. The line fused carnival spirit with technical inventiveness – from dresses made of balloons to sculptural panels crafted from melted plastic bottles resembling tongues of fire. Germanier collaborates with eco-conscious artisans worldwide, turning waste into art: in Vietnam, plastic is transformed into embroidery; in Brazil, raffia is made from old shopping bags. Standout pieces included a wedding dress made from recycled Japanese paper and biker jackets embellished with Swarovski crystals and paired with feathered helmets.

Photos courtesy of brand PR teams.