Female archetypes, vintage, and 1970s Los Angeles at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Copenhagen traditionally opens the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion season, bringing together the global fashion community at the height of the European summer. This year, Copenhagen Fashion Week celebrates its 20th anniversary, reaffirming its position as one of the industry's most influential platforms while attracting an ever-growing number of international brands, journalists, buyers, and opinion leaders. The official gala evening took place at The Royal Danish Opera, marking a symbolic opening that will once again help shape the direction of the fashion business for the coming season.

Remaining committed to its core value of sustainability, Copenhagen Fashion Week has taken another significant step forward by integrating new technologies into its framework. For the first time, the event's sustainability requirements are supported by an AI-powered system developed in collaboration with Renoon, demonstrating the organizers' ambition not only to influence the aesthetic agenda of fashion but also to advance industry standards.

For several days, the Danish capital becomes a natural extension of Fashion Week. Runway shows, presentations, breakfasts, dinners, and evening events seamlessly blend into the city's rhythm. Parks, public squares, museums, and historic buildings transform into immersive fashion venues, creating a seamless dialogue between the city and the runway. Fashion enthusiasts from around the world gather here not only to discover the latest collections but also to experience one of the industry's most distinctive street style scenes.

The city's unique atmosphere emerges from the meeting point of restrained Nordic aesthetics and a genuine appreciation for local traditions. Woven baskets, armfuls of wildflowers, and bicycles coexist with refined Scandinavian minimalism and unexpected eclecticism, creating a visual language that feels both authentic and contemporary.

Below, discover how this dialogue between local heritage and a modern vision of beauty unfolds through some of the standout collections presented during the opening days of Copenhagen Fashion Week.

OpéraSPORT

OpéraSPORT explores the idea of continuous growth, renewal, and the natural evolution of form. The collection draws inspiration from Carl Jacobsen's Garden, where architectural precision and untamed nature exist in delicate balance. Reflecting on this landscape, the designers examine the relationship between spontaneous growth and carefully considered structure, transforming clothing into an expression of constant transformation. Botanical influences appear through the interplay of fluid draping and sculptural silhouettes that balance fragility with quiet strength. Precise tailoring is paired with soft fabrics that move naturally with the body, while seamless knitwear enhances the sense of ease and freedom. Sheer materials, lace, and layered compositions create a subtle dialogue between concealment and revelation, echoing the secluded corners of a flourishing garden. The color palette combines soft greens, muted floral shades, calm neutrals, and rich earthy tones inspired by the surrounding landscape. Key looks include draped dresses, layered tops, textured three-dimensional fabrics, sculptural skirts, and impeccably executed tailoring. Remaining faithful to its DNA, OpéraSPORT continues its commitment to recycled and organic materials.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Stem

Stem's Spring/Summer collection reflects a new approach to garment creation by reimagining existing materials and production techniques. At its core is the brand's signature weaving method, through which volume and pleats are formed directly within the fabric itself, allowing the silhouette to emerge organically during the weaving process. The collection features minimalist designs where technical experimentation becomes the primary creative language. A standout collaboration with Ganni reinterprets the brand's archived fabrics, giving them new life through Stem's proprietary technologies while generating no production waste. Experiments with existing synthetic materials reveal new possibilities through unraveling, felting, pleating, and reconstruction, all while preserving the label's distinctive aesthetic. Another important chapter of the collection is the collaboration with designer Thomas Volttmann, resulting in garments hand-dyed with natural earth pigments and finished with beeswax to provide a natural protective coating. During the presentation, Stem also invited guests to repair their own T-shirts using specially designed woven patches created from fabrics featured in the new collection.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Taus

Taus captures the magical moment suspended between the depths of night and the first light of dawn. The collection is built around a delicate balance of mystery, melancholy, romance, and the freshness of early morning dew. The brand remains true to its distinctive identity, combining complex construction, corseted silhouettes, and impeccably tailored jackets with lighter fabrics, fresh color palettes, and an airy aesthetic. Upcycling continues to occupy a central role in the creative process, remaining an essential part of the label's philosophy. Among the standout pieces are a recycled leather jacket with a trompe l'œil denim effect, a mini dress crafted from a single silk velvet scarf, and a dress and skirt created from vintage nightgowns with transformable details. Each design reflects the brand's ambition to reinterpret familiar materials through a contemporary perspective on craftsmanship and construction. A special highlight of the season is the collaboration with the Danish jewelry house Pandora, whose pieces were incorporated throughout the styling of the collection, including three exclusive looks featuring archival jewelry from the brand.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

The Royal Danish Academy

As part of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the Royal Danish Academy unveiled its graduate showcase, Cut from Many Cloths, bringing together fourteen collections created by students of the MA Fashion, Clothing and Textiles programme. The presentation marked both the culmination of their academic journey and the professional debut of a new generation of designers exploring the complexities of the contemporary world through fashion. Identity, belonging, uncertainty, and hope formed the conceptual foundation of the collections, reflecting the perspectives of emerging creatives searching for their place within an ever-changing reality. Each presentation became a deeply personal statement, where traditional craftsmanship met innovative approaches to materials and silhouette. Drawing inspiration from diverse cultural heritages, the graduates incorporated stories and techniques rooted in Myanmar, Germany, Finland, Denmark, and China. Particular emphasis was placed on artisanal expertise, with handcrafted textiles, expressive prints, experimental fabric development, knitting, weaving, and hand-dyed materials taking center stage. United by their shared experience of studying and living in Copenhagen, the young designers presented a rich diversity of creative voices while examining the cultural and social landscape of contemporary Denmark.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Skall Studio

Skall Studio's latest collection reflects the brand's enduring commitment to Nordic heritage and the philosophy of conscious design. Founded in 2014 by sisters Julie and Marie Skall, the label embraced natural fibres, craftsmanship, and timeless wardrobe essentials long before sustainability became an industry-wide priority. The runway presentation unfolded against the natural surroundings of Aura Restaurant, where a blooming garden and live music created an atmosphere of serenity and quiet reflection. The collection became a tribute to life's simple pleasures—walks by the sea, family gatherings, seasonal harvests, and a close connection with nature. This season, Skall Studio softened its signature tailoring, embracing femininity through delicate embroidery, romantic ruffles, and fluid silhouettes. The brand's iconic denim remained understated, offering classic jeans in a variety of washes and fits free from unnecessary embellishment. The color palette echoed the luminous paintings of Skagen, combining soft whites with rich cornflower blue, egg-yolk yellow, and muted rose. Straw hats and woven accessories completed the looks, reinforcing an aesthetic of summer solitude, effortless elegance, and natural beauty. Here, the Skall Studio woman chooses freedom, comfort, and tranquility, embracing each moment in harmony with the world around her.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

MKDT Studio

At the heart of MKDT Studio's latest collection lies the belief that true elegance is born not from spectacle but from thoughtful attention to detail and a mindful appreciation of everyday beauty. Creative Director Caroline Engelgaar expressed this philosophy through impeccable tailoring, refined proportions, and a subtle balance between strength and softness. Each silhouette encourages the viewer to slow down and recognize beauty in moments that often go unnoticed. Entitled Everyday Wow, the collection celebrates intentional design, rejecting excess in favor of restrained sophistication. Exceptional craftsmanship and a precise design language form the foundation of every look. Accessories created in collaboration with Paloceras and Emme Parsons completed the collection, pairing sculptural eyewear with refined footwear that complemented the brand's signature tailoring. Together, they created a harmonious vision of contemporary luxury defined by precision, longevity, and understated refinement.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Sson

The Swedish label Sson transformed the fantasy of a seaside escape into a meditation on the fragility of the modern world. The presentation resembled a sun-drenched beach with white sand and an atmosphere of carefree leisure, while subtle signs of impending disaster hidden throughout the set created an unsettling sense of contrast. Drawing inspiration from twentieth-century travel culture, vintage holiday imagery, and glamorous resort advertising, the brand reinterprets the ideal of escape through the perspective of a new generation. Sculptural, exaggerated silhouettes intentionally challenge comfort, expressing the tension between indulgence and the awareness of its consequences. Archetypal garments from the past—including boleros, capes, bloomers, and feminine dresses—are reimagined as frozen symbols of a fading era. Upcycling remains the foundation of every look, with vintage and reclaimed materials transformed into entirely new garments: jackets become skirts, towels evolve into shorts, and bags are reconstructed into dramatic capes. A striking visual motif evokes figures emerging directly from the sea, their wet garments clinging to the body and reinforcing themes of vulnerability and transformation. Earthy browns, beige, khaki, and navy are punctuated by vibrant turquoise and yellow, balancing nostalgic resort glamour with a subtle dystopian undertone.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Gestuz

Gestuz explores femininity, personal rituals, and the power of self-expression through the sun-soaked atmosphere of 1970s Los Angeles in its Double Exposure collection. The collection portrays a world in which everyday gestures become symbols of freedom, pleasure, and self-definition. Creative Director Sanne Sehested approaches rituals as a uniquely feminine language—quiet moments through which women create their own realities and preserve memories of themselves. Vintage photo booths emerge as the collection's central metaphor, representing self-documentation and personal authorship beyond social expectations and prescribed roles. Soft lines and exposed skin are contrasted with architectural silhouettes defined by structured shoulders and bold proportions. Signature elements of the decade—including zebra prints, leather, worn-in denim, and sharply tailored suiting—appear throughout the runway. The season introduces a series of female archetypes: the free-spirited woman lounging by the pool, the glamorous driver of a sports car, and the confident businesswoman redefining menswear through her own perspective. Ultimately, the garments become a celebration of a woman's right to occupy space, shape her own identity, and preserve life's fleeting moments as acts of quiet yet powerful freedom.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

Paolina Russo

LVMH Prize finalist and recipient of the Zalando Visionary Award, Paolina Russo continues its exploration of youth and identity. This season, the design duo transports its heroine into the atmosphere of an endless summer, where quiet days spent at her grandmother's house give way to adventurous nights at the local skate park. The collection captures the duality of adolescence, balancing peaceful hours devoted to craft and patchwork quilting with the excitement of newfound friendships, independence, and first discoveries. The brand's signature optical-illusion knitwear remains central, featuring kaleidoscopic patterns that appear and disappear across sculptural tops, polo shirts, hoodies, leggings, and accessories. Sunset-washed denim, relaxed cargo trousers, warrior-inspired T-shirts, and lightweight skirts create a wardrobe that celebrates movement, individuality, and comfort. Romantic chiffon dresses adorned with floral motifs are unexpectedly reimagined through athletic references and utilitarian details. Rather than transforming identity, the designers present clothing as a symbol of belonging that enhances the wearer's individuality. Handcrafted finishing touches—including jewelry made from collected keys, metal-detailed belts, and customized footwear with crystal "friendship" laces—complete the looks. The result is a contemporary heroine who effortlessly blends tomboy freedom with romantic dreaminess.

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE

PHOTO: JAMES COCHRANE