ERDEM Explores the Art of Transformation
In its new collection, ERDEM blurs the boundaries between masculine and feminine
For Spring Summer 2027, Erdem Moralioglu turns to the story of Barbette, the American aerialist who became a notable figure of the Parisian avant-garde in the 1920s. Barbette performed in a female persona, removing his wig at the end of the act and making transformation itself part of the spectacle.
This duality becomes the foundation of the collection. ERDEM combines sharp tailoring, tuxedos and oversized coats with sheer tulle, lace, crystals and floral embroidery. Rather than opposing masculine and feminine elements, the collection allows them to coexist within a single look.
The palette moves from black and grey to lemon, pink, red and cool blue, gradually heightening the collection’s theatrical quality. Key details include sheer dresses, crystal-embellished pieces and waxed cotton garments created in collaboration with Barbour.
The show took place on September 20 at London’s Roundhouse as part of London Fashion Week. For SS27, ERDEM explores the beauty of transformation — a space between structure and fragility, reality and performance.
Photography: Jason Lloyd Evans
