Institution’s new collection reimagines monumentality
Galib Gassanoff presented the Spring/Summer 2027 Institution collection during Milan Fashion Week
In his latest collection, Azerbaijani-born designer Galib Gassanoff explores structure and construction through a softer lens while preserving the monumentality inherent to his work. The image of Soviet women, which the designer associates with maternal severity, becomes more fluid and adaptable for the new season. Titled DAŞ — meaning “stone” in Azerbaijani — the collection brings together cultural memory, artisanal techniques and a contemporary approach to construction. A key element of the looks is the kelaghayi, a traditional Azerbaijani silk headscarf measuring 150 by 150 centimetres. Made using hand-printing techniques and natural dyes, its production has been passed down through generations and is included on UNESCO’s list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Jackets transform into capes, while trousers are enhanced with flat elements reminiscent of aprons. Decorative stitching traces the construction directly across the surface of the garments. Open backs introduce fragments of skin, while sculptural volumes create a sense of protection without restricting movement. Particular significance is given to the natural imperfections of the materials — cracks, raw surfaces and unfinished silk edges.
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
The collection sets the weight of stone against the lightness of silk, and structural rigidity against the fluidity of fabric. As a result, the garments’ monumentality is no longer static but becomes dynamic — like stone capable of changing its state while preserving its essential nature.
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
Photo: PR INSTITUTION by Galib Gassanoff
