Cultural exchange and elegant gothic at New York Fashion Week

The final days of New York Fashion Week mark a point of transition for the other fashion capitals. The city passes the baton to London, followed by Milan and Paris. As the first of the “Big Four,” New York sets the tone for the season not so much through global trends as through a broader mood of freedom, energy, experimentation and a sense of newness. Unlike Paris, where heritage and haute art are particularly prominent, or Milan, associated with quality and Italian elegance, New York is above all about the scale of individuality. Designers here are not expected to follow a single aesthetic school; instead, a diversity of perspectives and individual signatures become part of the very language of Fashion Week. This freedom defines the character of the final days, with the leading collections below.

Private Policy 

The runway brought New York and China together, presenting not a fusion but the possibility of two distinct cultures coexisting. Private Policy’s concept is built around the idea of being “stitched, but not mixed” — two systems connected by a single seam. Rather than suggesting that one must choose between different languages, cultures or forms of belonging, the brand speaks to a generation for whom living between different worlds has become a natural reality. Basketball becomes the central symbol of this dialogue — an integral part of New York culture and, at the same time, a phenomenon with a vast Mandarin-speaking audience. The basketball court thus becomes a meeting point for two distant cultural systems. Private Policy does not seek to merge them into one or erase the differences between them. Instead, the collection emphasizes the value of each side while preserving its distinct identity and character. At the heart of the concept is trust — the possibility of being together without giving up who you are.

Photo: PR Private Policy

Photo: PR Private Policy

Photo: PR Private Policy

Caroline Zimbalist 

Exploring the theme of transformation, Caroline Zimbalist examines natural forms through a combination of natural fabrics and biomaterials. At the center of the collection is the process of change — from shedding an old shell to emerging in a new form. A recurring dotted motif references the patterns found on butterfly wings, orchid petals, seeds, nuts and the growth rings of ancient trees. Insect imagery plays a particularly important role, inspiring the collection’s patterns, colour combinations and textures. Biomaterials are integrated into traditional fabrics, creating the appearance of sequins or hardening directly onto the surface of each garment. As a result, the decorative elements acquire an individual character, seemingly continuing the material’s own natural evolution. Spotted structures recur across prints, lace, trims and individual biodetails, bringing the different elements of the collection together through a unified natural language. Fluid draping, asymmetric cuts and sculptural accents create the impression that the material is gradually growing through the garments. Some looks are made almost entirely from biomaterials, resembling moving sculptures, shells and constantly transforming forms.

Photo: PR Caroline Zimbalist

Photo: PR Caroline Zimbalist

Photo: PR Caroline Zimbalist

Bibhu Mohapatra 

At the heart of the story is Marchesa Luisa Casati, one of the most eccentric and captivating figures of the early 20th century. For the designer, she becomes a symbol of a woman who turned her own life into a work of art and regarded clothing as an expression of freedom and power over her image. Her spirit continues throughout the collection, where extravagance meets impeccable craftsmanship. Ikat silk from Odisha is paired with the finest Spanish lace, creating a dialogue between different cultures and traditions. Rich beading reminiscent of Venetian glass sits alongside architectural evening silhouettes. Fluid fabrics and expressive draping give the looks a sense of movement and theatricality. The collection seems to travel across eras and geographical borders while preserving Casati’s fearless curiosity. At the same time, her eccentricity is reinterpreted through contemporary ideas of femininity, craftsmanship and individuality. At the heart of the looks is the image of a woman who does not seek to disappear into her surroundings, but consciously becomes the main event.

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Dennis Basso 

A reinterpretation of the collection’s heroine, combining the familiar elegance of the Upper East Side with the younger, more relaxed aesthetic of downtown New York, forms the foundation of the line. She remains entirely at ease among luxurious resorts, yet now looks equally natural travelling to distant and unexplored destinations. Lightweight textures are infused with a sense of luxury: chiffon with custom prints, silk charmeuse, weightless tweed, organza embellished with hand-applied beads, rich brocades and feathers. Knee-length cocktail dresses and elegant daytime tweed looks are complemented by flowing chiffon dresses in different lengths. For evening occasions, Dennis Basso presents striking gowns embellished with pearls, sequins, beads and hand-cut crystals, creating an expressive interplay of light and movement. A particular highlight is the collection of evening boleros in faux fur, transforming the idea of summer fur into a contemporary wardrobe element. The result is a new interpretation of a classic image that retains its confidence and impeccable elegance while becoming more relaxed and modern.

Photo: PR Dennis Basso

Photo: PR Dennis Basso

Photo: PR Dennis Basso

Selkie

Selkie offers a surreal interpretation of romantic fantasy, exploring the idea of unlived versions of one’s life and the freedom to choose one’s own path. Kimberly Gordon, founder and creative director, translates this idea into the fantastical world of a travelling pirate circus, where female warriors live far from familiar civilization and journey through space in an imagined post-apocalyptic future. Their image becomes a reflection on choice, judgment and the right to determine one’s own destiny. Maritime folklore, historical fantasy and circus aesthetics come together through the brand’s distinctly feminine perspective. Pirate and harlequin references meet armour, corsets, romantic dresses and theatrical silhouettes. Chainmail, religious jewellery, seashells and expressive accessories reinforce the darker mood of the brand’s familiar aesthetic. Porcelain-like skin with a diffused glow, defined eye makeup and slightly dishevelled wigs complete the looks, creating characters who are at once fragile and rebellious. The central theme of the collection is the very idea of performance — not as an attempt to conform to other people’s expectations, but as an expression of freedom and independence.

Photo: PR Selkie

Photo: PR Selkie

Photo: PR Selkie

Sloan

Created between Paris, Ibiza and Mexico and photographed on the coast of Oaxaca, the collection brings together city and nature, strength and softness, masculine and feminine elements, transforming diverse cultural and natural impressions into a cohesive world brought to life by Mexican teams by hand, with particular care and attention. The collection draws on the energy of the sun — bright, free and sensual, radiating from within and expressed through one’s outward appearance. Its mood is rooted in naturalness, inner freedom and ease, expressed through clothing designed for movement. Sculptural silhouettes softly trace the female figure, emphasizing its sensuality without compromising comfort. Fabrics fold, drape and mould themselves to the body while retaining a sense of effortlessness and slight incompleteness. The visual language recalls sun-bleached surfaces, salt-kissed skin and hair after a swim, bringing the atmosphere of the coast into an urban setting. Embroidered Mexican cotton, hand-knitting, shells and precious stones add texture while highlighting the value of craftsmanship. Sporty ease meets precise forms and dresses with a delicate sensuality, creating a wardrobe for travel, long walks and unrestricted movement.

Photo: PR Sloan

Photo: PR Sloan

Photo: PR Sloan

Aiste Hong

The landscape of Lithuania’s coastline, where dunes have been changing shape for centuries and concealing traces of the past, inspired Aiste Hong’s new collection. This natural environment prompts reflections on time, movement and impermanence. The palette combines sandy tones, sea blue, mossy green and warm amber accents. Lightweight chiffon in sandy hues conveys the airiness of the dunes, while textured surfaces recall the uneven vegetation of the coast. Paper tufting and jacquard with moss-like fringes enhance the sense of a natural, almost raw texture. Feathers incorporated into fastenings reference Baltic birds and continue the theme of interaction between clothing and nature. Familiar forms are reinterpreted, while materials undergo transformation, echoing the constant work of wind and the elements. Through these changes, the collection reflects on the human ability to evolve while preserving an inner sense of identity. At its core is an understanding of the beauty and fragility of a process in which the new inevitably emerges from the past.

Andrew Kwon

Andrew Kwon turns to the image of Nicolino Calè’s Arcadian landscape, exploring femininity through the beauty and mystery of nature. Meadows, quiet lakes and changing light become the foundation for silhouettes that seem to float around the body. Fluid dresses are paired with sharply constructed corsets, elongated trains, draped hoods and sleeves resembling weightless capes. Layering enhances the sense of continuous movement while maintaining the striking sculptural quality of the looks. Natural motifs appear through three-dimensional flowers, delicate embroidery, lace, beads and crystals asymmetrically placed across bodices, sleeves and skirts. Airy, translucent dresses contrast with dark lace, precise tailoring and silhouettes that emphasize the lines of the body. The colour palette moves from warm champagne, soft blush, celadon and watery blue to violet and deep midnight blue. Gradual shifts in colour capture the changing light of the landscape, while shimmering surfaces and crystals evoke reflections on water and drops of dew. The result is a collection balanced between romance and sensuality, bringing together the earthly and the almost otherworldly.

Photo: PR Andrew Kwon

Photo: PR Andrew Kwon

Photo: PR Andrew Kwon

Frederick Anderson 

Frederick Anderson’s tribute to the 250th anniversary of America turns to the history of immigrants. The designer presents the United States as a rich garden where ancestral stories, cultural heritage and the pursuit of freedom of individual belief intertwine. In his vision, the diversity of immigrant stories has shaped what is now understood as American style. Folk music holds a special place within the concept, reflecting the designer’s Southern roots and the tradition of passing down memory, stories and generational experience through music. The show opened with Grammy Award winner and two-time Juno Award winner Allison Russell, who performed her Grammy-winning song “Eve Was Black”. Her performance recalled the pain and hardships experienced by generations on the path towards freedom. The “The Garden Party” collection is also dedicated to the designer’s father, who died from injuries sustained during his service and participation in several wars in defence of America.

Photo: PR Frederick Anderson

Photo: PR Frederick Anderson

Photo: PR Frederick Anderson