The intricate architecture of silhouette in Christopher Esber’s Spring Summer 2027 сollection
In his latest collection, Christopher Esber reimagines familiar wardrobe staples, transforming cuffs, belts and lace into key elements in the construction of the silhouette
The Australian designer turns his attention to details that typically remain in the background, from pocket squares to cuffs. Here, everyday wardrobe elements take on new meaning, becoming the foundation for a more complex silhouette architecture.
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
A rock ’n’ roll spirit emerges through elongated tailoring proportions, sculptural jackets and multiple cuffs that unexpectedly extend beyond the sleeves. The classic A-line skirt is reinterpreted with high slits and draping that disrupt its familiar geometry. Lace becomes a means of engaging with menswear codes: the pocket-square motif is enlarged to the scale of a dress and translated into a ceramic-coated fabric that retains its softness and fluidity. Tops with deep cut-outs reveal layers of fine georgette beneath, exposing an inner structure reminiscent of a deconstructed jacket.
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Collars and lapels lose their conventional outlines, becoming abstract elements within dresses and suits. Lace trims and lingerie-inspired sheer knits trace graphic lines across the body, while bra straps and cup details are integrated into the garment’s construction. In collaboration with artist Anna Stüdeli, collage compositions are transferred onto PVC with a satin backing, creating a dialogue between recognisable imagery and abstraction. Metallic turquoise lace gives shape to voluminous, cocoon-like silhouettes, while dresses cut shorter at the front challenge the traditional proportions of eveningwear. Reassembled fragments of leather are transformed into jackets and reconstructed dress details, underscoring the designer’s fascination with material transformation.
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
Photo: PR Christopher Esber
The show, staged in an underground Parisian theatre beneath an oval opening in the ceiling and against a leopard-print floor, heightened the contrast between familiar fashion codes and their unexpected reinterpretations.
