Dries Van Noten: a vibrant representative of deconstructivism in fashion

This year, we are witnessing changes in creative directors across major fashion houses—eras are ending, and new visionaries are bringing fresh perspectives to well-established brands. Dries Van Noten is not an exception. On March 19, 2024, Dries Van Noten announced his departure from the position of creative director of his eponymous brand, which he founded in 1986.

The designer’s final work was showcased during Men’s Fashion Week for the Spring-Summer 2025 season. To provide deeper insight into Van Noten’s journey, director Reiner Holzemer filmed a documentary titled “Dries.”

“I feel it is time to make way for a new generation of talent”, the designer explained his decision.

Belgian couturier Dries Van Noten was born on May 12, 1958, into a family of tailors: his father owned a multi-brand boutique, and his mother was a buyer. From a young age, Dries traveled with his father to fashion shows in Milan, Paris, and Düsseldorf. After founding his brand, he became one of the representatives of deconstructivism in fashion.

Van Noten has a background in education from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.

“Having my own voice was my dream,” Van Noten began the letter announcing his departure from his brand.

In 1986, the designer decided to conquer London at the British Designers Show. Van Noten presented a collection dedicated to yachtsmen. The minimalistic yet luxurious looks made from linen and cotton became part of his debut line. The meticulously crafted ergonomics and fabrics left the fashion community in awe, leading to a small order from Barneys New York. A year later, the women’s line appeared. By 1989, Dries had opened a boutique in Antwerp and shortly after that organized a fashion show in Paris. By the early 2000s, he had boutiques in Paris, Milan, Tokyo, and Hong Kong. This period was highly successful for the designer: around fifty shows, impromptu dinners, and international awards.

To say that Van Noten set trends would be incorrect. He didn’t chase trends, didn’t give in to influencer pressures, and rarely engaged with the press. He found far more joy in sealing jars of jam and watering his peonies in the greenhouse.

Dries’ hobbies were reflected in eclectic prints, picturesque avant-garde designs, vibrant colors, and unconventional cuts. These elements infused the magic into Dries Van Noten’s collections.

Since the designer is reticent about his personal life, viewing scenes from Reiner Holzemer’s film is a particular delight. The film shows Dries strolling through the garden paths of his family estate near Antwerp, observing the fleeting world through the glass walls of his office, selecting fabrics, and conversing with tailors.

“I am often asked if the work gets easier after grand shows. I would never dare to say ‘yes.’ Each collection is a new challenge. Shows can be anything but routine. They don’t follow logic. You always have to wrestle with yourself to achieve the desired outcome.”

Dries Van Noten’s departure from the role of creative director of his brand was not surprising, although many in the fashion world watched his final show with tears in their eyes. In 2018, the Belgian brand was acquired by the conglomerate Puig. Under the terms of the agreement, Dries was required to remain in his position for only the next five years. The contract reached its logical conclusion, leading to the end of an era but also providing the opportunity to finally relax and immerse himself in the atmosphere of his beloved garden in Ringenhof and in making homemade preserves from seasonal fruits, a skill he learned from his mother.