In search of the lost amulet

Jewelry is not just about aesthetics; it reflects culture, history, and human emotion. Every piece tells a story, preserving traditions and conveying the inspiration of its maker. In a world constantly shaped by technological advancements, jewelry remains rooted in its origins, continuing to captivate and inspire people around the globe.

December of last year was a rich month for cultural events. We were introduced to the work of a talented jeweler from Kashkadarya, Sharif Raupov, who revives long-lost schools of Uzbek jewelry craftsmanship. The exhibition, titled “In Search of the Lost Amulet” (“Unutilgan Tumor Izidan”), opened on December 13, 2024, at the Gallery of Fine Arts of Uzbekistan. Featuring more than 80 exhibits, the display includes late 19th and early 20th-century jewelry-making tools as well as several antique pieces from that era. 

Sharifjon Raupov is a highly skilled craftsman whose talent spans nearly all forms of Uzbek jewelry artistry, including the lost Khorezm school. His creations evoke a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era, representing an artistic dialogue with the memory of his great-grandfather, the jeweler Abdurauf Karavanbashi.

The exhibition’s goal is not simply to recreate traditional Uzbek jewelry crafted by anonymous masters. Its primary aim is to reinterpret these long-forgotten artifacts and forge a new understanding of national jewelry that has largely vanished from everyday life. The exhibition invites visitors to reflect on the past and reconnect with their cultural roots.

Visitors accustomed to seeing jewelry statically displayed in horizontal showcases at Uzbekistan’s museums will be pleasantly surprised by the curators' innovative approach. Curators Maksud Askarov and Sayora Nazarova opted for a different method of presentation, imbuing the pieces with a sense of life. Thermoplastic transparent materials such as acrylic and plexiglass were used as display bases, highlighting the lightness and vibrancy of traditional jewelry.

The exhibition’s emotional richness, innovative presentation, and incorporation of multimedia elements underscore its profound philosophical and cultural significance.

Through the analysis of family heirlooms as tangible remnants of the past, the curators delve into the themes of spiritual memory and its importance. They pose thought-provoking questions: “Does our relationship with objects reflect the spiritual state of society? Can these objects serve as a mental bridge between the past and the future?” 

In collaboration with documentary filmmaker Umida Akhmedova, an expedition titled “In Search of the Lost Amulet” was conducted, resulting in three video projects.

The first video art piece focuses on memory and the continuity of jewelry-making traditions in Bukhara. Using his great-grandfather’s tools, Sharifjon Raupov presents them as sacred objects that preserve the legacy of past artisans.

For the second video project, the exhibition organizers reached out to families in Tashkent who have preserved heirloom jewelry, aiming to showcase the diversity and value of Uzbekistan’s jewelry heritage. This project features “memory keepers” who, while wearing or displaying family heirlooms, share personal stories and memories of loved ones. 

Visitors are encouraged to reflect on whether they possess items linked to their ancestors and consider what significance these objects hold for them.

The third video project invites contemporary young women to explore traditional Uzbek jewelry from the early 20th century. By trying on the pieces, they express their personal feelings and impressions, offering a bridge between past and present.

ELLE O‘zbekiston warmly invites you to visit the exhibition, open until the end of January, and immerse yourself in the world of traditional jewelry craftsmanship.

Photo by Serafim Dim.