Japanese aesthetics, Spanish character, and Burning Man references at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid

What do we know about Spanish fashion?

30 Sep 2025
Photo: The Label Edition

If Barcelona has become famous as the global capital of bridal fashion, then Madrid has firmly established itself as the center of prêt-à-porter. The city, with its aristocratic charm and rich cultural heritage, sets the tone for an aesthetic where classic elegance intertwines with the country’s signature fiery temperament.

This season, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid celebrates its 40th anniversary under the aegis of its main automotive partner and leading industry players. Remaining the primary platform for promoting local fashion on the international stage and gathering the country’s most renowned designers, the event also acts as a magnet for international guests, showcasing MBFWM’s renewed global positioning.

Stylish attendees mirror the runway, reflecting the Spanish character through vibrant colors, embroidery, bold patterns, and refined silhouettes. Even a strict business suit can feature playful ruffles, while accessories – from shoes to handbags – consistently take center stage.

Madrid Fashion Week is spread across several venues, making it as convenient as possible for guests. The first day took place in the glass gallery of Palacio de Cibeles and set a high standard. The main exception was Palomo’s show, which moved beyond the main venue and presented its collection in the recently restored Palace Hotel – a gesture highlighting its international ambitions. The subsequent days were held at the Mercedes-Benz venue, where visitors could further immerse themselves in the whirlwind of Spanish fashion, thanks to key partners, and explore emerging designers in dedicated showrooms.

We invite you to discover 12 key Spring/Summer 2026 collections shaping the face of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid’s milestone season:

Silvia Tcherassi

The spring-summer collection by the Colombian designer embodies her signature relaxed elegance, featuring graceful dresses crafted from flowing fabrics that create a sense of lightness and freedom. The color palette impresses with its diversity: from white, sky blue, and black to rich terracotta, lime green, and violet. A special emphasis is placed on the combination of orange and fuchsia, which feels unexpectedly fresh and dynamic. Ombre-effect dresses add poetic depth and visual sophistication to the lineup, while the striped print becomes one of the central motifs, highlighting the graphic nature of the looks. Exquisite accessories take center stage, with standout pieces including pouch bags and clutches adorned with long fringe. These playful elements infuse the looks with movement and a subtle bohemian flair, while fringe itself emerges as a key decorative feature. 

 

Palomo

Inspired by Sofia Coppola’s films, the brand presented the collection “Eighteen”, symbolizing the label’s coming of age. The runway showcased feminine lampshade dresses in pastel tones, accented with graphic bows. Airy silhouettes were juxtaposed with structured peplum jackets and elegant poplin blouses. Ribbed knit dresses emphasized simplicity and refinement. In the menswear lineup, the focus was on cotton or taffeta ensembles of jackets paired with short shorts. The subversive edge was heightened by voluminous shirts embellished with Swarovski crystals and delicate ruffles. The collection maintained its gender-fluid ethos but expressed it through wearable, clean-cut designs. This was Palomo’s first fully developed womenswear line, which seamlessly complements the brand’s masculine aesthetic. 

Pedro del Hierro

“La Gran Metrópoli” pays tribute to the nighttime metropolis, revealing its beauty through a rich palette ranging from orange and burgundy to amethyst and garnet shades. Drawing inspiration from the works of Mark Rothko, the atmosphere of Tokyo’s Shibuya district, and Olafur Eliasson’s light installations, the brand presents fashion as a living art form infused with the energy of the city. The collection takes viewers on a visual journey from the warm glow of sunset to the electric intensity of dawn. Under the creative direction of Nacho Aguayo, the womenswear line explores the edge of evening allure – with flowing fabrics, sheer textures, and sensual shimmer. Dominant elements include long dresses with fluid silhouettes that mirror the city’s constant motion. Striking tie-dye patterns transform into bursts of color reminiscent of tropical landscapes. Lightweight silks and delicate transparency add a sensual dimension to the looks. The menswear segment, created by Alex Miralles, offers a fresh take on the classic suit, proposing a more flexible and modern vision of masculinity.

Adolfo Domínguez

A true favorite in Spain, Adolfo Domínguez presented “Zenit”: a collection inspired by the moment of peak light and the sensation of complete harmony. The runway featured dresses and suits in a subdued gray palette with smooth tonal transitions reminiscent of water reflections. Lightweight, semi-transparent fabrics hint rather than reveal, creating an atmosphere of refined subtlety. In contrast, the “Nadir” line symbolizes liberation and the process of shedding the unnecessary. Here, drapes fall like discarded skin, while traditional outerwear transforms into elegant dresses. Clean lines, noble materials, and minimalist aesthetics remain faithful to the brand’s DNA. Instead of theatrical flamboyance, the collection embraces restrained elegance – seen in impeccably tailored suits and softly structured coats. These garments embody respect for materials and demonstrate that timeless design holds more value than fleeting trends. 

Simorra

Hidden harmony within the universe became the main theme of the designer’s vision. Each look reflects the invisible order that connects and structures the surrounding world. Fractal patterns repeat and transform throughout the collection, appearing in embroidery, prints, and cut lines. Fabrics unfold into organic structures that seem to multiply and flow naturally. Special attention is paid to the architecture of materials and forms, creating functional pieces with high aesthetic value. The collection offers a new perspective on the interconnectedness of all things, where each detail is part of a larger whole. The garments fuse natural geometry with human interpretations of beauty, turning fashion into the language of nature. Every item highlights the brand’s desire to go beyond familiar shapes and create unique constructions. 

Claro Couture

Inspired by the opulence of the 1920s and the bold elegance of the 1990s, the brand merges glamour, body-hugging silhouettes, and daring femininity. Named “Rosé Noir”, the collection celebrates refined excess and feminine sensuality. It shifts between art-deco cabaret and the backstage of a rave, where satin shoes become a symbol of mood. The color palette features soft powdery shades – pale pink, mint, and vintage yellow – complemented by timeless black and white tones. Among the standout pieces are structured mini dresses, tailored jackets with cinched waists, and impeccably cut trousers. Evening looks range from minimalist satin designs to dramatic embroidered gowns. Key materials include poplin, sheer muslin, crystal-embroidered lace, and satin silk crepe. Intricate hand embroidery, meticulous finishing, and subtle shimmering details create an impression of luxury and youth. Silhouettes emphasize the body’s curves and natural beauty, placing femininity at the heart of the collection. 

The Label Edition

A unique interpretation of Japanese culture transforms garments into aesthetic and emotional motifs of contemporary fashion. The brand draws inspiration from temple geometry, sunset hues, and the calligraphic shadows of Zen gardens, creating a harmonious dialogue between tradition and modernity. Silhouettes range from structured shirts and pleated tops to functional jumpsuits and lightweight dresses – all united by meticulous attention to detail and craftsmanship. The color palette reflects Japan’s natural landscape: deep indigo, warm orange, earthy tones, green, and soft pink, accented by vivid pops of yellow, red, and white. Natural and lightweight materials – textured cotton, linen, fine silk, refined denim, and cotton gauze – emphasize airiness and comfort. Artisanal techniques like stitching, cords, and buttons reference shibori dyeing and the wabi-sabi philosophy, adding authenticity. Voluminous ensembles and lightweight knitwear strike a balance between structure and fluidity, highlighting wardrobe versatility. Each piece merges precise tailoring with emotional resonance, reflecting a delicate meeting of East and West. 

Isabel Sanchis

Another collection infused with elements of Japanese architecture and culture. Volume is the brand’s signature feature. Created under the direction of Isabel Sanchis and her daughter Paula Maiques, the lineup is built around two key principles: architectural shapes and the interplay of opposing values in Japanese aesthetics. The collection features flowing dresses and ready-to-wear pieces in shades of green, orange, and soft pink. Special emphasis is placed on handcraftsmanship: micro-pleating and embroidery inspired by wall paintings. The finale underscores the brand’s signature black-and-white combinations, focusing on voluminous silhouettes and innovative techniques. Geometric embroidery, seamless dresses, and 3D-printed floral and silicone elements all make an appearance. Traditional methods are closely intertwined with modern technologies, creating a unique sense of structure and lightness. 

De La Cierva y Nicolás

The forces of nature are evident in every outfit – energy seems to explode from within. Movement is expressed through asymmetrical silhouettes, voluminous shapes, and dramatic slits. The color palette features deep browns, blacks, and metallic reflections, creating a sense of power and transformation. Fabrics become an extension of the idea of impermanence: organza, pleats, tulle, and shredded gauze layers lend each piece dynamism and volume. Garments are handmade with meticulous attention to detail and a highly architectural approach to materials and finishes. The collection embodies the brand’s philosophy, which combines exclusivity, customization, and sustainable production. Founder Dolores Nicolás, who learned sewing under her mother’s guidance from a young age, built a family-run business employing twenty specialists. 

Hannibal Laguna 

The “LAZULIFLOW” line transports viewers into a world where reality and symbolism intertwine through form, fabric, and color. The primary source of inspiration for the designer was the rich and multifaceted spectrum of blue – from lapis lazuli to sapphire – symbolizing the connection between the sky and the ocean’s depths. The silhouettes echo references to ancient Greek garments: tunics, cloaks, and airy asymmetrical dresses come to life in contemporary interpretations. Sheer fabrics and embroidery evoke the feel of sea foam, coral textures, and blossoms entwining around the female form. Organza unfurls like sails in the wind, while crystal embellishments catch the light like underwater currents. Each gown represents a stage in a woman’s journey into the depths of beauty and emotion. 

Custo Custo Barcelona 

The famously eccentric brand known beyond Spain, Custo Barcelona, explores the intersection of fashion and self-expression, encouraging audiences to discover their own style and voice. A video presentation of the collection paid tribute to the Burning Man festival, where art and individuality merge with nature. The lineup showcases the harmony between humans and the environment through garments inspired by nature and anthropomorphic animals. Dresses and graphic T-shirts serve as central elements, carrying messages of environmental awareness. Bright colors and expressive prints create an emotionally and visually rich universe. Custo Barcelona emphasizes sustainability, blending creativity with an eco-conscious philosophy. Each piece is designed not only to delight the eye but also to convey meaning. 

Yolancris 

The brand returns to its roots, paying homage to boho – the philosophy upon which the fashion house was founded. Under the concept “Back to Boho”, the designers explore the style that defined their earliest collections, reimagining it through the lens of haute couture craftsmanship. Each dress seems to tell a story of freedom and boldness, combining spontaneity and daring in a contemporary way. Flowing silhouettes, layered fabrics, and airy volumes create a sense of lightness and ease. Delicate hand embroidery, lace inserts, ruffles, and sheer elements emphasize the romantic and bohemian aesthetic. Victorian influences blend seamlessly with modern boho, forming a unique visual language. Signature accessories – clogs and cowboy boots – complete the looks, adding character and edge. Every piece reflects the harmony between traditional craftsmanship and innovative design. 

 

30 Sep 2025
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