Loewe: the history of the Spanish brand
How a 19th-century label became the most popular fashion brand in the world
Loewe is one of the oldest fashion houses, celebrating its 178th anniversary in 2024. Jonathan Anderson has managed the brand for over a decade. During this significant period, Loewe experienced a creative renaissance, with designs like a cracked egg replacing a heel cap and oversized anthurium flowers on dresses being just part of the transformation. However, the Spanish house wasn’t always like this.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
The brand was originally conceived by master leather craftsmen. Back in 1846, the company specialized in making bags and accessories. Loewe was the largest in its field, allowing it to become the official supplier to the Spanish royal court by 1905.
Queen Victoria Eugenie, the wife of King Alfonso XIII of Spain, was a frequent visitor to the boutique on Príncipe de Madrid Street. Other famous Loewe clients included Sophia Loren, Ernest Hemingway, and Marlene Dietrich.
The brand received its name 30 years after its founding, thanks to German leatherworker Enrique Loewe Rossberg. The first women's clothing collection was released in 1965, marking a turning point in the company’s history.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
The iconic Anagram logo with four L's appeared in 1970. Despite rumors of Karl Lagerfeld's involvement, the logo was actually created by artist Vicente Vela. However, Karl did work for the brand’s women’s lines early in his career. Around the same time, company executive Enrique Loewe Lynch signed a contract with Giorgio Armani, who worked on the men's line.
Soon after, Loewe launched its debut fragrance, L de Loewe. The launch was successful, leading the house to release other perfumes: Loewe Esencia in 1987, Loewe Aura in 1994, and Loewe Solo in 2004. Loewe's fragrances gained popularity due to their vibrant, nature-inspired notes, which embody the essence of Spain.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
Seeing Loewe's success, the French conglomerate LVMH acquired the rights to Loewe’s international distribution, and later, in 1996, fully purchased the company.
The first creative director of the brand after the transition to LVMH was Narciso Rodriguez. He played a key role in modernizing the brand and infusing the collections with a contemporary and minimalist aesthetic. Under his leadership, the first international stores were opened.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
As of 2024, Loewe’s creative director is Jonathan Anderson, who has held the position for over 10 years. Thanks to Jonathan’s vision, the once conservative and fairly traditional house has transformed: pop culture elements, such as pixel art, were incorporated into the Spring-Summer 2023 collection. The brand caught the attention of influencers with its extraordinary and playful designs, like rose heels, cake candles, and cracked eggs.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
Jonathan also established the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, the world’s first international award in contemporary craft. It aims to recognize and support artisans who demonstrate the ability to create with aesthetic value. The brand seamlessly combines fashion, craft, and culture.
In 2023, the fashion platform Lyst named Loewe the world’s most popular brand, pushing Prada off the top spot.
Photo: SPOTLIGHT / Loewe
