Milan Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2025
Key highlights from the runway
At Milan Fashion Week, heritage brands redefined their signature aesthetics, striking a balance between tradition and unexpected interpretations. Elegance took on new forms, featuring bold colors, optical illusion fabrics, and eclectic takes on sophistication – a sharp departure from the “quiet luxury” of past seasons.
Debut designers
Lorenzo Serafini for Alberta Ferretti
Making his Milan Fashion Week debut, Lorenzo Serafini, best known for his work at Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, stepped into his new role at Alberta Ferretti, personally chosen by the designer herself.
Serafini’s collection was fluid, airy, and ethereal, offering a romantic yet contemporary take on the brand’s signature femininity, without falling into nostalgia or directly referencing past archives.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alberta Ferretti
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alberta Ferretti
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alberta Ferretti
David Koma for Blumarine
Transparency and lace became the core of Blumarine’s latest collection under the creative direction of David Koma. The designer is carving out his path within the brand, respecting the brand’s DNA while gradually incorporating his own design language.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Blumarine
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Blumarine
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Blumarine
Milestone moments
Fendi
Fendi’s Fall-Winter 2025 presentation began with an emotional tribute to the brand’s family heritage. Tazio and Dardo, the six-year-old grandsons of Silvia Venturini Fendi, opened the show, mirroring a moment from 1966 when Silvia herself opened a Fendi runway at Karl Lagerfeld’s request. This symbolic gesture underscored the brand’s deep-rooted generational legacy, reinforcing the idea that Fendi is more than a fashion house – it’s a family tradition. The collection itself featured 85 meticulously crafted looks, each reflecting the house’s rich history.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Fendi
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Fendi
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Fendi
Architecture
Strict yet intricate silhouettes, inspired by architecture and primal forms, were paired with neutral shades of gray, sand, and black. Voluminous futuristic details added expressiveness to the looks, while broad shoulders, layering, and column skirts redefined minimalism, offering a new interpretation of power dressing in the collections of MM6 Maison Margiela, Prada, and N21.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/MM6 Maison Margiela
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Prada
photo: SPOTLIGHT/N21
Androgyny
Gucci and Diesel prove that fashion is, above all, about freedom and boldness. Deconstruction, asymmetric cuts, bleached denim, oversized sweaters with deliberately raw slits, and rugged footwear create a rebellious yet well-thought-out style.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Diesel
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Gucci
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Diesel
Medieval influence and eclecticism
Etro focuses on intricate textures and eclecticism – velvet intertwined with jacquard, while cashmere was adorned with Eastern patterns. Chainmail became a symbol of strength and protection: Jil Sander introduced shirts with metallic mesh, Alberta Ferretti showcased dresses with an armor-like effect, and Versace presented gown-inspired battlewear.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Etro
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Jil Sander
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Versace
The return of the '80s
Donatella Versace once again embraced boldness, reinterpreting the 1980s aesthetic through the house’s signature glamour. Patent thigh-high boots and neon outerwear created striking, unforgettable looks. Shades of magenta, azure, lime, and electric blue referenced color blocking – a popular styling trick of the era.
Dolce & Gabbana remains true to their signature aesthetic: the collection featured corsets, sheer blouses, and black lace, but this time, vibrant accents in accessories and outerwear added a fresh twist.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Versace
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Dolce & Gabbana
Wild prints
Blumarine reimagined the Y2K aesthetic with a strong focus on leopard print. Classic beige and black, provocative red and deep blue animalistic patterns appeared on tops, trousers, and boots, giving the collection a daring character.
Tom Ford, under the creative direction of Peter Hawk, presented a sensual yet restrained take on glamour. The spotlight was on velvet dresses that accentuated the silhouette and oversized leopard-print coats, complemented by bold gold jewelry, creating luxurious looks with a dramatic edge.
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Versace
photo: SPOTLIGHT/Tom Ford
The Fall-Winter 2025 season promises to be rich in contrasts: architectural silhouettes coexist with eclectic boho, grunge meets elegance, and natural fabrics intertwine with high-tech materials.
