Pakhlavon Turdiev:

Pakhlavon Turdiev – the founder of the Black Quail brand, designer, artist, and a man whose energy of self-expression is reflected in every detail of his work. In an interview for ELLE O`zbekiston, he shares his journey, sources of inspiration, challenges, cultural identity, and how the philosophy of personal freedom can become the foundation for a new-generation brand.

Tell us about your journey. How did you come to create accessories?

My path to the world of accessories began with a deep passion for art. I grew up surrounded by creativity: my older brother studied fine arts, and his work inspired me. I participated in school competitions, won awards, and even started earning money from my paintings while still in high school. Later, I enrolled in the National Institute of Art and Design named after Kamoliddin Behzod.

The turning point was my admiration for Johnny Depp’s image as Jack Sparrow – such a strong visual character and charisma. I wanted to create equally expressive accessories, first for myself, then for friends. When I saw interest in them, the Black Quail brand was born – my way of speaking to the world.

Did you have a mentor who played an important role in your development?

Yes, more than one. My first inspiration was my brother. Later, during my studies, I received great support from my painting teacher Khayrulla aka. But the key person who influenced my worldview was Ayrin Batyrovna Allabergenova. She taught me to think more broadly, to approach everything creatively and unconventionally. Her contribution to my development as an artist and brand founder is invaluable.

What challenges did you face in the beginning?

The biggest challenge was staying true to myself. I’ve always had an inner need to go against the current, to express my individuality through appearance, ideas, and aesthetics. That wasn’t always accepted. People saw me as unconventional, and I had to prove my right to self-expression through action, not just words.

At the start, I had no experience – I had to learn everything from scratch. I taught myself techniques, design, and production. I remember how no one showed up to the first brand presentation. That was a tough moment, but it only strengthened my resolve. I knew I had to go all the way – and that became a point of growth.

How did the name Black Quail come about?

The quail is a symbol of cultural connection. In Uzbekistan, its song is associated with warmth, home, and comfort. And black, for me, symbolizes boldness, nonconformity, freedom. It reflects my love for alternative culture, arthouse cinema, and music. Black Quail is a fusion of roots and the courage to be different. We’re inspired by Uzbek aesthetics, but we aim for minimalism, audacity, and a modern reinterpretation of tradition.

At the heart of the brand is freedom of expression. We’re not afraid to break the mold and create items that speak for their wearer. Our clients are those who are unafraid to be themselves.

What is your creative process like, and how do you work with your team?

Inspiration comes from everywhere: film, architecture, fashion, even random conversations. When an idea arises, I jot it down in a mood board, make sketches, and form a concept. Then I discuss it with the artisans, and that’s when the most exciting part begins: turning the idea into a real product.

If a project requires unique solutions, we look for experts from other fields. It’s important to me that everyone working on an item contributes a part of themselves. It’s always a lively, engaging process.

Tell us about the project “Speak About Your Dreams”

This project was created together with Coca-Cola and ELLE O‘zbekiston to inspire women not to be afraid to speak about their dreams. We launched a contest for female artists, inviting them to express the theme of dreams in a visual form. The winner will create a sketch for a limited-edition scarf collection, and the other participants will be featured in an exhibition in our new Black Quail space.

It’s a story about how every woman’s voice can be heard, and how a dream can become reality if it’s spoken aloud.

What are your future plans?

We continue to grow, preparing new collections that intertwine modernity and culture. In the coming month, we plan to open a new store in the center of Tashkent, on Istikbol Street, 18, opposite the French embassy. It will be more than a retail point – it will be a place for connection, inspiration, and an art space.

Black Quail remains a brand for those who value style, individuality, and freedom. We’re just getting started — and we have many bold ideas ahead that we can’t wait to share.

photo: Lilya Nasirova