Silence, Form and Personal Space: Reflections on London Fashion Week AW26
This season, London Fashion Week began with an unexpected quietness. Moving away from elaborate sets and grand gestures, designers turned to the essence of clothing — its fit, movement and the way it feels on the body. Instead of theatricality, attention shifted to silhouette, texture and construction.
Across the shows, a shared direction could be sensed: the focus moved from impression to presence. Clothing was approached not as an event, but as part of everyday life — something that exists alongside the person rather than apart from them. The runway no longer functioned as a stage, but as an extension of a real wardrobe, a space where comfort, movement and personal perception mattered most.
Poet-Lab
The Inside the Lab collection was presented in an industrial space in Spitalfields, free from decoration. The empty venue heightened attention to the models’ movements and the line of the garments. At its core was a calm, conscious femininity without overt display.
Photo: PR / Poet-Lab
Clean lines and elongated proportions were paired with sheer tulle and soft draping. Exposed areas of the body appeared not as provocation, but as deliberate compositional elements. The leather of voluminous jackets suggested protection, while column dresses introduced a slower rhythm of movement.
Photo: PR / Poet-Lab
Here, 1990s minimalism met the gentle sensuality of the 1970s. Silvery fabrics softened the strictness of the silhouette, and structured forms acquired an almost meditative quality. These were pieces designed not for immediate impact, but for prolonged contemplation.
Photo: PR / Poet-Lab
Naomi Hart
The Sovereignty of Stillness continued the theme of concentration. The designer primarily worked with proportion and fit, examining the construction of the silhouette.
Photo: PR / Naomi Hart
Architectural jackets were paired with fluid dresses; soft shoulder lines contrasted with precise cut-outs. The exposure of the body remained delicate and natural, never disrupting the integrity of the look. The garments felt considered, yet never rigid.
Photo: PR / Naomi Hart
Photo: PR / Naomi Hart
A muted palette, wool, suede, and dense natural fabrics emphasised materiality. Elongated silhouettes and restrained forms created a sense of calm and confidence. This was a wardrobe intended for everyday wear rather than a runway effect.
Photo: PR / Naomi Hart
Genaro Rivas
The A Glass to Break show focused on construction and the assembly of form. Working through deconstruction, garments appeared divided into fragments and reconnected, creating elongated, almost architectural silhouettes.
Photo: PR / Genaro Rivas
Tailored jackets with extended sleeves were paired with soft draped dresses and layered skirts. Slashed fabrics and crack-like textures introduced movement within the look without overwhelming it. Despite the complexity of the construction, the clothes remained wearable.
Photo: PR / Genaro Rivas
Photo: PR / Genaro Rivas
The palette centred on black, cool slate tones and metallic shades, interrupted by rare flashes of red. Sculptural headpieces and tactile materials added expression while maintaining an overall restraint. The collection felt composed and deliberate — more about inner resilience than outward effect.
Photo: PR / Genaro Rivas
AADNEVIK
The Jeanne d’Arc collection reflected on the image of a heroine as a symbol of inner strength. The story was translated into eveningwear, where femininity was paired with a sense of protection.
Photo: PR / AADNEVIK
Corseted silhouettes reminiscent of armour were combined with soft tulle, sheer lace and flowing skirts. Structured bodices were balanced by light layers of fabric and open shoulder lines, giving the looks a ceremonial yet airy presence, closer to a theatrical interpretation of evening dressing.
Photo: PR / AADNEVIK
Decoration played a central role: crystal embroidery, appliqué and shimmering surfaces caught the light and added a subtle, almost sacred atmosphere. The palette centred on black, ivory and silvery shades with soft pink nuances. The collection read as a romantic vision of a contemporary heroine, where haute couture expressed confidence and independence.
Photo: PR / AADNEVIK
