Sporty Chic, Journeys Through the Elements, and Gender Codes in the First Days of Milan Fashion Week

Following London, Milan takes up the baton in the fashion marathon. Not even heavy rains could dampen the city’s energy during Fashion Week. Guests from all over the world gathered here, and the presence of Asian audiences and buyers evoked the pre-pandemic era, when Italy was the epicenter of the global fashion movement.
This season’s program proved to be particularly rich: shows and presentations followed one another, setting the tone for Spring–Summer 2026. The opening days stood out with the premiere of Gucci’s film and the debut of the La Familia line — once again, Demna showed his mastery of intrigue and ability to surprise the audience. In contrast, many designers unveiled a refined version of “quiet luxury,” now inseparable from Italian fashion DNA: the elegance of Loro Piana, the nobility of Brunello Cucinelli, and the craftsmanship of Kiton. At the same time, creative energy pulsed in the collections of N°21, Vivetta, and Dhruv Kapoor, where style and form played in a dialogue of ideas.

Dhruv Kapoor

The designer reinterprets wardrobe foundations, transforming lingerie elements into symbols of strength and freedom. Once discreetly hidden, inner layers now step into the spotlight, gaining new meaning. The brand fuses past, present, and future into forms where vulnerability becomes protection and modesty turns into defiance. Indian heritage appears through reimagined bandhgala jackets and skirt constructions given modern contours. These garments cease to be relics of history and instead become the architecture of the present: flexible, alive, and free. The palette draws on Vedic “planetary” shades, turning color into a ritual of energy and protection. Each piece is presented not as surface but as structure — where the hidden is revealed and gender codes dissolve their rigid boundaries. The virginal is exalted into the monumental, and time itself seems to take shape on the body.

Kiton 

Every look embodies harmony and inner balance, uniting comfort with impeccable style. Feather-light cashmere, flowing silks, and blends of linen and cotton lend silhouettes softness and refined naturalness. Simplicity of line and generous proportions form minimalist looks infused with quiet confidence. Shades range from deep greens and aquamarines to rusted browns and tender peaches, flowing seamlessly from day into evening. Particular attention is paid to detail: embroidery rooted in ancient Indian traditions executed in Italian ateliers, along with micro-fringes, inlays, and hand-knits that elevate fabric into works of art. Soft nappa, suede, and lacquered finishes underscore the sophistication of the line while preserving suppleness and fluidity. Accessories, including a reimagined Kiss Me bag with its poetic smile-like curve, add character and completeness. Sportswear elements and a silk-and-linen capsule introduce versatility, making the looks easily adaptable to any occasion.

Loro Piana 

A brand synonymous with quiet luxury and uncompromising quality unveiled a journey through the seasons — from winter’s final chills to summer’s blaze, with color as the guiding narrative. Recognized as a master of fibers, the house showcases the richness of its palette through cashmere, silk, and merino wool, creating complex mélanges and kaleidoscopic shades. Natural sandy, cream, and neutral tones come alive with accents of red, turquoise, yellow, and sky blue. The silhouette remains unmistakable: elongated, soft, and fluid, complemented by flat shoes and sculptural felt hats. Iconic pieces such as the Maremma jacket and Traveller take on new forms and fabrics, while femininity is emphasized in reversible coats, bouclé jackets, and vivid prints. Tailoring finesse surfaces in elongated blazers and cashmere blousons paired with wide trousers and skirts. Summer lightness finds form in silk tweeds, trench coats, and relaxed chinos, while the maritime spirit comes alive in stripes and knitted pea coats. Eveningwear retains a daytime ease, enriched with fringes and voluminous sweaters. Bags and accessories — from the Extra Softy Bag to the Gioia Shopper and Just Bag — embody minimalism and refinement, while jewelry with natural stones offers a perfect finishing touch.

Dsquared2 

An explosive fusion of 80s, 90s, and 2000s aesthetics was delivered with audacious modernity. Twin brothers Dean and Dan Caten transformed nostalgia for fashion’s iconic decades into a source of fresh energy and bold silhouettes. Their approach thrives on reworking era-defining symbols, overturning familiar codes into new expressions. The collection opened with strong shoulder-centric silhouettes and animal prints that injected drama into the looks. Voluminous layering, beaded skirts, and reinvented denim with elastic waists created harmony between theatricality and street freedom. A key highlight: a leopard chiffon mini-dress shimmering with hundreds of threads in motion. Accessories heightened the drama — oversized necklaces became focal points, while retro sneakers and stiletto flip-flops sparked an ironic clash of styles. In the ICONique capsule, the designers once again reworked their iconic logo, turning it into a symbol of irony and signature irreverence.

Vivetta

A dive into the underwater world — where mythology and fantasy intertwine with reality — formed the central theme. Sirens and sea creatures, emblems of transformation, reflect the brand’s evolving creative path. The designs played with imagery: pirates in billowing trousers, marine tattoos, and fantastical beings seemingly brought to life on fabric. Every detail brimmed with irony, from sequin collars to a delicately draped scarf. Materials evoked the ocean: mother-of-pearl buttons created a “wet” effect on cotton dresses, while knits and canvas rose to couture levels. Embroidery and appliqués depicted marine fauna — seahorses in lurex, lace with tiny crabs, anemones crafted with intricate French stitches and beads. Shirts took center stage, morphing into evening dresses or minis, while cape-like details tied at the neck, waist, or shoulder, acting as accessories. Fishing nets were upcycled into luxury, with fish-shaped bags, octopus jewelry, starfish adornments, and crab-shaped crystals. Shoes drew special attention — heels shaped like sea urchins, golden or painted, sandals striped like beaches, and wedges rippling like ocean waves.

Pucci 

Prints and visual expression set the foundation for the Passepartout collection. The house unveiled its Fall–Winter 2025–2026 line, inviting everyone into Pucci’s universe. The setting — Palazzo Clerici, steeped in history and opulence — magnified the collection’s grandeur. Light effects and a dynamic palette conjured a mood of club glamour and contemporary art. At its core, the strength of the brand lies in its vivid individuality. The collection drew inspiration from archival illustrations, each given a modern twist. Color and form were paramount, while the spirit of the originals remained intact. Elegant, feminine suits claimed center stage. Beyond apparel, the house expanded its range: accessories, handbags, shoes, eyewear, and jewelry shaped complete looks. The campaign, shot by Oliver Hadlee Pearch, captured Naomi Campbell embodying freedom and sensuality under strobe lights — the living spirit of the Italian maison.

Onitsuka Tiger 

Under Andrea Pompilio, the collection became a manifesto of “urban fantasy,” where the brand’s sports code found fresh expression. The signature yellow shone as a symbol of energy and freedom, becoming the accent of every look. Pieces emerged as if from the architectural shadows of the metropolis, reflecting light and individuality. The designer boldly mixed vintage references with modern forms, creating a dynamic, daring wardrobe. Pleated skirts and striped tops paired with leather bikers, asymmetrical parkas, and quilted jackets with 80s echoes. Sporty leggings met oversized blazers and heels, forging a new sporty-chic language. Accessories added playfulness: oversized sunglasses, graphic bags, and tiger-motif necklaces set the mood. A highlight — jewelry with golden pearls created in collaboration with Japanese jeweler Mikimoto, alongside Tiger Tote and Karate bags. Footwear balanced between satin ballet sneakers and feminine Mary Janes.

N°21 

Alessandro Dell’Acqua built his collection on layering and lightness. Male codes were woven into a feminine wardrobe, reinforcing freedom and independence. The proposed woman’s beauty lies not in form but in inner strength. Sheathed chiffon dresses with slits, lace bras, men’s shirts and bombers mingled with striking details such as rigid duchesse pleats. Lightness manifested in chiffon petals imitating feathers and translucent layers dissolving in light. Accessories commanded attention: the Cabiria bag appeared in canvas, adorned with studs and pendants. Footwear ranged from austere double-buckle derbies to feminine round-toe slingbacks.

Brunello Cucinelli 

A perennial favorite of Italians, Brunello Cucinelli invited the audience into a journey through the four elements: earth, water, air, and fire. The brand explored the harmony between nature’s forces and contemporary lifestyle, rekindling a bond with essentials through refined blends of tradition and modernity. Earth shaped the palette — sandy hues, white clay, and earthy browns forming the base, enriched with summer tweeds and textured details. Air appeared in sheer fabrics, tulle, and delicate lace meshes that breathed movement. Water emerged in fluid lines, new proportions, and ergonomic cuts marrying comfort with couture refinement. Fire ignited the collection with accents of red, brick-terracotta, and ruby, infusing passion and energy into summer looks. Every detail reflected artisanal mastery and dedication to craftsmanship. Silhouettes balanced femininity with dynamism, merging classic forms with modern accents. Fabrics, textures, and colors wove a unified language of depth, freedom, and inner harmony.

Giada 

The Boboli Gardens in Florence became a wellspring of inspiration. Gabriele Colangelo “painted” with light gliding over leaves, while blooming peonies seemed to flourish on fabric like Renaissance flowerbeds. These impressions transformed into refined silhouettes where lightness met graphic precision. Ink sketches bloomed into prints and embroideries, and sheer chiffon merged with raffia in intricate “subtraction decoration” techniques. White and monochrome ensembles moved like peony stems dancing across fabric. Jewelry carried the theme further — rounded resin necklaces and brooches evoked sculptural forms of nature. Fringe studded with micro-crystals elevated the looks, adding a sense of impermanence.

Anteprima 

Anteprima continued its dialogue between fashion and art through a collaboration with Japanese sculptor Takahiro Iwasaki. The collection Echoes of Transience explored fragility transformed into strength, beauty discovered in chaos, inspired by Iwasaki’s meditative miniatures. Creative Director Izumi Ogino reinterpreted the everyday, turning the ordinary into the extraordinary. Light fabrics and architectural silhouettes echoed temple and tower geometries, creating a sense of airiness and balance. On the runway, a reflective pond symbolized transformation and structure, underscoring the collection’s concept. Intense and pastel shades — from blue and green to lilac and peach — reflected optimism and renewal. Recycled threads, metallics, and transparent fabrics showcased the sculptor’s unique tactile language. Pieces included trompe-l’œil coats, cropped trenches, unisex bermudas, and mesh sweaters printed with Iwasaki’s works. Everyday garments became wearable art, where texture, form, and color acted as instruments of poetry. The brand also underscored sustainability: recycled fibers, regenerated nylon, and polyester, along with zero-waste techniques, created clothing valuable both visually and ecologically.