Couture Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2025

The best of Paris

13 Feb 2025

By Irina Perova

A modest lineup of participants, refined elegance, reflections on different eras, literary inspirations, and archival references – these are the defining elements of the Spring-Summer 2025 Couture Fashion Week in Paris.

Schiaparelli

Daniel Roseberry explored the concept of perfection, drawing inspiration from Ancient Greece and George Michael. These influences led the creative director to craft a collection where modernity forms a strong bond with heritage. By heritage, he meant not only Elsa Schiaparelli’s legacy but also the works of Balenciaga and McQueen.

The Icarus collection is a celebration of extravagance, baroque opulence, layered compositions, and intricate fabric techniques. Thirty-three looks harmoniously blended the aesthetics of the 1920s, 30s, and 50s, reinterpreted through a contemporary lens.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Schiaparelli

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Schiaparelli

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Schiaparelli

Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri embarked on a journey to rediscover her inner child, referencing Yves Saint Laurent’s trapeze silhouette for Dior, the surrealist artworks of Leonor Fini and Dorothea Tanning, and Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland.

Through mini crinolines, pannier skirts, ribbons, florals, and delicate ruffles, Chiuri infused the Spring-Summer 2025 couture collection with joy, whimsy, and playfulness. The show took place in the halls of the Musée Rodin, where nine large-scale textile panels showcased embroidered interpretations of Indian artist Rithika Merchant’s paintings.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Dior

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Dior

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Dior

Chanel

The House presented its vision of cyclical beauty, staying true to Gabrielle Chanel’s timeless aesthetic. The collection traced a single day's journey, capturing the transformation from soft sunrise hues to the inky depths of night. Light, fabric, and time intertwined through masterful embroidery and delicate craftsmanship.

This year marks the 110th anniversary of Chanel’s haute couture legacy, first introduced by Gabrielle Chanel in 1915. The next collection will be the first under the direction of Mathieu Blazy, the newly appointed creative director.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Chanel

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Chanel

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Chanel

Valentino

Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino was an extravagant 48-look collection inspired by the " Infinity of Lists" of Umberto Eco.

The collection wove together tangible and intangible elements: symbols, colors, philosophy, and archetypes, each looking at a narrative drawn from the world and the archives of Valentino Garavani. It reflected Michele’s creative psyche, shaped by history and culture.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Valentino

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Valentino

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Valentino

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli’s latest couture journey led to Morocco, reflected in the Les Jardins de la Ménara collection. Inspired by Marrakech’s cultural richness and vibrant palette, particularly the serenity of the Menara Gardens, the collection paid homage to tranquility and color.

Valli’s signature optimism and love for vibrancy came to life in coat-dresses with striped hoods, jackets lavishly embroidered with beads, jacquard tops paired with fuchsia gloves, and his iconic voluminous skirts.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Giambattista Valli

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Giambattista Valli

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Giambattista Valli

Alexandre Vauthier

Alexandre Vauthier eliminated excess, focusing instead on precise cuts, sharp silhouettes, and a restrained color palette.

Wide-leg trousers, flowing stoles, three-piece suits, asymmetrical jumpsuits, and gowns entirely made of shimmering fringe, alongside sheer tops embroidered with beads and feathers, celestial cape coats, oversized floral tops, luxurious velvet, and striking geometric cuts, all define Alexandre Vauthier's Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture collection.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alexandre Vauthier

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alexandre Vauthier

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Alexandre Vauthier

Armani Prive

Giorgio Armani’s dazzling tribute to gemstones symbolized multiple milestones: His 90th birthday, the 50th anniversary of the Giorgio Armani brand, and the 20th anniversary of Armani Privé.

Presented at the newly inaugurated Palazzo Armani, the Lumières collection revolved around light, embodied in 93 meticulously crafted looks. Statement details included five-carat gemstone buttons, ethereal sheer gowns encrusted with jewels, and intricate beadwork, celebrating the maison’s heritage in couture craftsmanship.

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Armani Prive

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Armani Prive

Photo: SPOTLIGHT/Armani Prive

Jean Paul Gaultier

Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the youngest guest designer to reinterpret Jean Paul Gaultier’s archives, unveiled his collection, Le Naufrage. Inspired by Gaultier’s iconic designs and the music video for Seal and Mylène Farmer’s song, where a raft drifts at sea, the collection reimagined the House’s signature nautical motifs.

From mermaids and sailors to pirates, de Saint Sernin paid homage to Gaultier’s maritime fantasy. The legendary ship-shaped hat from Gaultier’s 1997 collection made a striking return to the runway, adding a dramatic, theatrical flourish.