White dress as a cultural code

There are things so familiar we rarely question where they came from. The white wedding dress is one of them. ELLE O‘zbekiston explores how a single outfit transformed fashion, became iconic, and continues to set the tone for the most beautiful wedding ceremonies today.

photo: instagram \ @royalcollectiontrust

When Queen Victoria appeared in white at her wedding, she had no idea her choice would become a standard for thousands of women around the world. The white dress is not just a garment – it's a symbol that still inspires designers, stylists, and brides to this day.

photo: instagram \ @royalcollectiontrust

Until the mid-19th century, no one wore white to weddings, and this was not due to superstition or tradition. White was considered highly impractical: expensive to maintain, easy to stain, and very demanding in care. Brides typically wore rich-colored gowns – deep burgundy, regal blues, fabrics embroidered with gold, and adorned with precious clasps. Bridal fashion was more about status and family wealth than purity or innocence.

photо: instagram \ @royalcollectiontrust

Everything changed on February 10, 1840, when the young Queen Victoria walked into St. James’s Chapel in a light-white gown trimmed with handmade lace. The look wasn’t a spontaneous romantic gesture – it was a calculated political and aesthetic statement. The white color highlighted the delicacy of English lace, showcasing the skills of local artisans, and contrasted starkly with the ornate court attire around her. In her wedding portraits, Victoria appeared truly modern, and thousands of women longed to emulate her look.

The press quickly picked up the story. The white dress didn’t symbolize modesty, as many believe, but rather a new class identity: those who could afford a gown worn for only one evening.

photo: instagram \ @lebanesefashionhistory

In the 20th century, the white dress became part of mass culture. Hollywood stars, world-renowned couturiers, and magazine covers all helped turn the white gown from mere clothing into a projection of dreams. Dior brought volume and drama, Chanel added lightness and freedom, and Givenchy – sharp elegance.

photo: instagram \ @hautecouturefashionista

photo: Chanel HC FW 1995 by Karl Lagerfeld

photo: Givenchy FW 1997

Today, the white dress is no longer a rule, but a canvas for personal expression. It can be minimalist, like The Row’s brides; architectural and provocative, like Jacquemus; or fairy-tale light, like Giambattista Valli. White plays with time, texture, emotion, and story.

photo: instagram \ @therow

photo: instagram \ @giambattistavalliparis

The shape and mood may change – short, vintage, embroidered, puff-sleeved – but the white dress remains a timeless symbol of a new beginning.