How Galliano reclaimed his genius at Maison Margiela?
A triumphant return
John Galliano is a man whom fashion first placed on a pedestal and then cast out. After the high-profile scandal in 2011, he found himself in exile, and it seemed his era had ended. But in 2014, the fashion world was shaken by the news: Galliano would take the helm at Maison Margiela. At the time, many questioned whether he could fit into the DNA of a brand known for its deconstruction and anti-fashion philosophy. Today, there’s no doubt – Galliano hasn’t just returned, he has reaffirmed his place among the greatest designers of our time.
From scandal to glory
Galliano’s comeback didn’t happen overnight. Maison Margiela, founded by Martin Margiela, represented an ethos opposite to Dior, where Galliano once reigned. Glamour was replaced with intellectualism, luxury with subversion. But Galliano managed to balance his theatrical instincts with the brand’s quiet rebellion.
His first couture show for Maison Margiela in 2015 was proof: this was a reborn master. The looks were surreal, technically complex, and rich with craftsmanship, but the unmistakable Galliano drama was still there. He elevated the brand’s codes, preserving its anonymity and mystique while infusing it with a deep narrative.
photo: instagram/gallianoarchive
Reinventing Margiela: a new chapter
Galliano’s greatest achievement at Margiela lies in how he transformed the house while respecting its core values. He expanded the Artisanal line – the brand’s Haute Couture division, turning it into a creative laboratory. Each piece became a meditation on construction, texture, and silhouette. Galliano made fashion a form of sculpture, a living piece of art.
He reinterpreted Margiela’s iconic elements — masks, visible seams, reconstructed garments and gave them new relevance in the modern world. His couture shows became full-blown theatrical performances, while the ready-to-wear remained commercially viable, yet conceptually rich.
photo: instagram/gallianoarchive
Couture that makes you think
Galliano brought to Margiela a philosophy of storytelling through clothing. His collections are narratives told through cuts, fabrics, and the body’s movement. He continues to explore gender identity, abstraction, and the human psyche, making Margiela one of the most intellectually driven fashion houses of today.
In his shows, there’s freedom and a force of a creative mind that has not only returned but deepened. Galliano is no longer just a provocateur. He has become a philosopher of fashion, shaping not just clothes, but how we think about fashion itself.
photo: instagram/gallianoarchive
Galliano didn’t just reclaim his genius – he evolved. His work at Maison Margiela is a symphony of craftsmanship, conceptual depth, and avant-garde storytelling. No longer reliant on external validation, his creativity is now more powerful than ever.
