TEFAF New York 2025

The spring edition of TEFAF New York 2025, held at Park Avenue Armory, reaffirmed the growing interest in jewelry as a collectible art form. At a time when the market’s attention often shifts to digital assets or trendy names, TEFAF highlights what holds long-term value, both aesthetically and culturally.

Jewelry in the spotlight at TEFAF

Exhibitors included houses such as Hemmerle, Otto Jakob, Boghossian, and Siegelson. These pieces are not meant for daily wear or to follow current trends. Instead, they are crafted with a focus on preservation and collecting. Their allure lies in exceptional craftsmanship, rare materials, and deep cultural or historical references.

photo: Instagram/ Hemmerle

hree dominant themes emerged across the displays:

• Historical resonance. Belle Époque jewelry generated particular interest, admired for its ornate elegance and masterful workmanship. Rare examples featuring platinum, enamel, and natural pearls were on display, drawing collectors with a taste for timeless beauty.
• Contemporary reinterpretation. Several booths showcased concept-driven jewelry works situated at the crossroads of fine jewelry and contemporary art. Their presentation included artistic statements and contextual notes, reinforcing the narrative aspect of the pieces.

Focus on uniqueness. One-of-a-kind items and those with distinctive provenance drew steady attention. Collectors sought non-replicable pieces with layered meaning, preferring subtlety over recognizability.

photo: Instagram/ Tefaf

TEFAF as a reference point 

For those interested in jewelry from an investment perspective but are not professional collectors, TEFAF provides key markers of value:

• Quality of cut and material selection remain fundamental.
• Documented provenance and designer reputation significantly enhance a piece’s worth.
• Timeless design and lack of trend-driven elements position jewelry as a long-term asset.

The role of jewelry as a finishing touch to the look 

Several exhibitors also emphasized jewelry's dual role as a wearable form of investment. Unlike financial assets, jewelry circulates – it can be worn, gifted, and embedded in cultural or personal narratives. This explains the strong appeal of pieces with historical context or rare characteristics, even if they don’t promise high liquidity.

TEFAF New York 2025 revealed a shift in the collectible jewelry market toward substance over spectacle. Jewelry is being viewed not only as an object of beauty but as a thoughtful, intellectual choice. Demand is centered around pieces that can be passed down through generations, while retaining both relevance and emotional value. 

photo: Instagram/ Hemmerle