Rebellious rock and religious symbolism at Milan Fashion Week

Milan Fashion Week took on a renewed character this season, with changes to the familiar opening-day schedule bringing a new order to the calendar’s key names. For the first time, Prada opened the season, becoming the first house to present its collection under the revised schedule. The programme featured 54 runway shows and 88 presentations, reaffirming Milan’s position as one of the leading stages of the global fashion industry. Versace and Boss were notably absent from this season’s calendar, with Versace planning to return for Fall Winter 2027 under the creative direction of Pieter Mulier. Changes also took place within the Armani universe: instead of a runway show, Emporio Armani presented a collection by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco in a presentation format. Against this backdrop of shifting dynamics, Milan continues to shape the contemporary vision of Italian fashion, bringing together established codes and fresh perspectives on the latest trends.

We take a closer look at some of the collections presented during the opening days of Milan Fashion Week.

Dhruv Kapoor

A state of mindful presence lies at the heart of the Indian designer’s new collection. Kapoor invites us to slow down and pay closer attention to what is already unfolding in the present moment. This idea is expressed through garments in which time becomes a defining element, gradually transforming the body, fabric, colour and memory. The summer wardrobe explores layers, proportions and movement, with sun-faded shades set against saturated colours, evoking different stages of ageing and growth. Silhouettes shift in scale, moving from loose, elongated forms to cropped, body-hugging shapes, while softly draped designs are balanced by more structured pieces. Traditional Indian garments, including the lungi, waistcoat and sari, are reinterpreted as systems of wrapping and layering, taking on new proportions and configurations. Embroidery traces seams and surfaces in the form of winding shoots and continuous organic lines, while prints evoke faded posters, moss, weathered wood and imagery drawn from different periods in time. Materials undergo their own transformation: silk is paired with jersey, checks acquire a crumpled texture, and leather is treated to resemble aged skin. Faded denim, lace, soft poplin and handcrafted details further challenge conventional perceptions of familiar fabrics.

Photo: PR Dhruv Kapoor

Photo: PR Dhruv Kapoor

Photo: PR Dhruv Kapoor

J.Salinas 

The designer draws on the cultural heritage of the Andes and the traditions of Peruvian folk art. At the heart of the collection is the retablo, a small decorative structure depicting miniature scenes that bring together religious rituals, celebrations, everyday life and community traditions. The brand preserves the region’s heritage through traditional techniques such as crochet, weaving and embroidery. Organza and ultra-fine Pima cotton are combined with sheer layers, intricate textures and meticulous handwork, highlighting the value of time and craftsmanship. Short dresses and capes sit alongside looser silhouettes, creating a striking contrast between the delicacy of the materials and the expressive character of the decorative techniques. The colour palette captures the vibrancy of the mountains, bringing together yellow, pistachio, turquoise, blue and sky blue with shades of red, coral, orange, lilac and violet. Hand-crocheted bags and clutches complete the collection, while leather footwear is enhanced with knitted inserts and delicate floral details.

Photo: PR J.Salinas

Photo: PR J.Salinas

Photo: PR J.Salinas

Brioni 

Brioni offers a contemporary interpretation of tailoring through its La Donna Atelier womenswear line, which allows clients to personalise their wardrobes through a considered selection of fabrics, linings, buttons and monogrammed details. Rome once again serves as the source of inspiration, its rich visual palette translated into shades of white, blue and Roman red, punctuated by accents of orange. The refined colour scheme gains an additional lustre through silk with a metallic finish. For the first time, leather becomes part of the womenswear offering, with suede and nubuck featured in a structured jacket-cardigan and a safari-inspired jacket. Particular attention is given to the Jardigan, an iconic Brioni design originally created for the menswear line in 1955 and now reimagined for women as a contemporary expression of strength and confidence. The eveningwear segment showcases the atelier’s expertise through exquisite embroidery and crystals, meticulously applied by the House’s experienced artisans. The collection culminates in a white jacket entirely embellished with a three-dimensional botanical motif, requiring 60 hours of handwork to complete.

Photo: PR Brioni

Photo: PR Brioni

Photo: PR Brioni

Lug Von Siga 

The brand explores Anatolia’s cultural and artisanal heritage through the lens of contemporary fashion. Founded in Istanbul by Gül Ağış, Lug Von Siga places silence at the centre of its collection, not as an absence, but as a space for memory, emotion and inner connection. One of the collection’s key symbols is the scarf, which, according to an old Anatolian tradition, lovers would exchange before parting as a token of remembrance and a symbol of hope for reunion. This motif is intertwined with memories of handcraftsmanship, recalling the delicate details of a grandmother’s trousseau, and is reinterpreted through a contemporary aesthetic. Traditional embroidery and intricate attention to detail form the basis of a dialogue between past and present, preserving the intimacy of craftsmanship within modern silhouettes. The palette centres on white, ivory and soft translucent tones, reinforcing a sense of lightness and tranquillity. Silk, georgette and taffeta are paired with technical fabrics, while fluid textures contrast with structured surfaces and clean lines.

Photo: PR Lug Von Siga

Photo: PR Lug Von Siga

Vivetta 

The archive serves as a source of values and inspiration, offering a reinterpretation of the past through a contemporary language of lightness and spontaneous elegance. Contrasting silhouettes emerge through the pairing of sheer shirts with statement plastrons, fitted jackets and high-waisted skirts with elongated lines. Subtle references to 1950s and 1960s couture appear in corset inserts, strapless dresses and outerwear with sculpturally defined sleeves. British equestrian influences meet cape-like forms, while pleats and raised details evoke garments discovered in an antique jewellery box. Pastel and sorbet shades are set against nude, black and ivory, creating layered colour combinations. The sculptural quality of close-fitting silhouettes is softened by weightless viscose, cotton gabardine, double-faced cotton and nylon taffeta. The menswear line maintains tailoring at its core, while loosening its formal codes through lightweight shirts, sportswear elements and silk knitwear. The result is a wardrobe in which history becomes the foundation for a new language of everyday dressing.

Photo: PR Vivetta

Photo: PR Vivetta

Photo: PR Vivetta

Luisa Beccaria

Surrounded by lush greenery and a blooming garden, guests witnessed a natural continuation of the designer’s signature aesthetic, with dresses resembling fragments of the natural world brought into the wardrobe. The collection celebrates botanical motifs that have long been integral to the brand’s identity. Titled Herbarium, it evokes the pages of an antique botanical collection, where flowers, leaves, pomegranates and other plants appear in prints, embroidery and appliqué. The offering includes bustier dresses with delicate capes, pencil skirts, sheer blouses, mini dresses and relaxed silhouettes. Handcrafted openwork mohair knitwear features fluid colour transitions reminiscent of flower petals. The palette draws on the hues of water and sky, dawn, sunlight and sunset. Organza, lace, embroidered tulle and chiffon are juxtaposed with brocade, poplin and printed cotton, creating a contrast between airy and more substantial textures. Graphic stripes introduce a sharper rhythm, balancing the romanticism of the floral embellishments.

Photo: PR Luisa Beccaria

Photo: PR Luisa Beccaria

Photo: PR Luisa Beccaria

Sarawong

A celebration of the beauty of shadow and its ability to reveal the depth of light lies at the heart of the presentation. Eastern artistic traditions meet the drama of European courtly aesthetics, creating a distinctive interplay of opulence and contrast. The palette centres on dark green, midnight blue, moss green and black, brought to life by gold details and cobalt accents. Silk, triacetate, taffeta, jacquard, vintage lace and metallic fabrics come together in a dialogue between matte and luminous surfaces. Asymmetric draping, cut-outs, raw edges and gold embroidery resembling cracks across a surface introduce a sense of deliberate imperfection. Crystals, chains, brooches and gemstone-encrusted medallions serve as striking accents, reinforcing the collection’s vision of beauty in imperfection. Lace, embroidery, openwork patterns and botanical motifs heighten its romantic mood, transforming fragility into strength.

Photo: PR Sarawong

Photo: PR Sarawong

Photo: PR Sarawong

Onitsuka Tiger

The brand presents a collection inspired by the concept of ENERGY STATION — a meeting point where different people, cultures and life paths converge. At its core is the interplay between classic tailoring and sportswear, balancing elegance with functionality. The sporty dimension emerges through canvas workwear jackets, wide shorts reminiscent of Muay Thai uniforms and denim featuring double stripes that reference the archival TIGER PAW motif. Grunge, Western and rock influences also run throughout the collection, expressed in devoré velvet dresses with silk fringe, leather jackets and vests, as well as lightweight dresses and mini skirts adorned with ribbons. The menswear line continues to explore contrasts, pairing signature yellow knit T-shirts and checked shorts with multi-pocket vests, tailored trousers and tracksuits. Footwear remains central to Onitsuka Tiger’s identity. The iconic MEXICO X66 receives a metallic finish, new colourways and a mule version. The brand also unveils a new interpretation of its signature Onitsuka Tiger Stripe for the first time. Retaining the recognisable foundations of the original emblem, the updated design offers a contemporary expression of the brand’s identity and marks a new chapter in its evolution.

Photo: PR Onitsuka Tiger

Photo: PR Onitsuka Tiger

Photo: PR Onitsuka Tiger

Redemption 

Creative director Gabriele Bebe Moranti explores the sensuality of bohemian style infused with the rebellious energy of the early 1970s rock scene. Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin serve as the collection’s key inspirations — icons of a generation that transformed music into an expression of freedom and personal style into a form of self-identity. From Hendrix, the collection draws a spirit of boldness, independence and defiance of convention. Joplin’s influence emerges through a vision of femininity that is imperfect, strong and emotional, yet free from artifice. This sensibility takes shape in fluid silhouettes, sheer textures, layering and softly sculptural forms. Asymmetric dresses with draping and flowing peplum details sit alongside mini dresses, blouses with cascading ruffles and understated ensembles featuring soft jackets and trousers. The palette centres on beige, ivory and dusty pink, while black reinforces the collection’s rock-inspired character. Snake print references the statement shirts worn by rock musicians in the 1970s, preserving a sense of freedom and provocation throughout the looks.

Photo: PR Redemption

Photo: PR Redemption

Mantù 

The collection expresses the brand’s vision of contemporary femininity through simplicity, precision and understated Italian elegance. At its heart are pieces that do not seek to define a woman, but rather emphasise her individuality. Minimalist silhouettes follow the lines of the body while preserving freedom of movement and a sense of natural ease. The palette combines vibrant tangerine, deep navy, shades of pink and rich red with soft beige. Texture plays a defining role: metallic cotton introduces a subtle sheen, modal lends softness and lightness, while cotton-linen blends create a distinctive surface. Taffeta provides crisp volume, whereas crinkled cotton and linen turn the natural irregularity of the fabric into an integral part of the aesthetic. Linen blended with ramie and delicate sangallo lace bring together airiness, texture and femininity, while exclusive floral prints introduce movement and individuality to the collection’s clean silhouettes.

Photo: PR Mantù

Photo: PR Mantù

Photo: PR Mantù