Bohemian Romanticism, Aristocracy, and Artistic Retribution at Paris Fashion Week

This season has been rich in debuts — some we already witnessed during Milan Fashion Week, yet the Paris chapter proved no less intriguing. The new beginning came with Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s collection for Dior, which brilliantly merged the house’s archives with his forward-looking design vision. While audiences remain divided over Duran Lantink’s conceptual line for Jean-Paul Gaultier, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s fresh and elegant reinterpretation of Balenciaga was met with a standing ovation. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez delivered an excellent collection for Loewe, securing the brand’s place among the fashion elite. Nicolas Roo, in his debut for IRO, opened a new chapter in the brand’s story.
All that remains is the much-anticipated “baptism by fire” — Matthieu Blazy’s debut for Chanel — to complete the picture. The true verdict, of course, will come from clients and sales reports in the months ahead.

The midpoint of Paris Fashion Week will be remembered not only for its fashion intrigues, but also for its timeless collections. What else caught the eye on the Spring–Summer 2026 runways? Let’s take a closer look.

Bernadette

The new collection draws inspiration from the image of a heroine returning to her seaside family home — where every room carries traces of the past. The pieces feel sun-soaked, gently faded, and effortlessly relaxed, imbued with a sense of time passing. They remind us that true beauty transcends time, passed down like memory from mother to daughter.
The color palette — inspired by Belgium and Spain — mirrors the hues of a coastal sunset, brought to life in knitted tops, corseted dresses, and prints reflecting the shimmer of the sea. Beaded embroidery and marine motifs adorn shirts and skirts, turning fabrics into summer collages. The Bernadette woman remains faithful to her sensuality and inner calm. Soft draping, lace, and floral patterns speak of a strength hidden within her femininity.

Kobi Halperin 

Quiet sensuality, mysterious charm, and bohemian romanticism defined Kobi Halperin’s first Paris show, dedicated to the brand’s 10th anniversary. The collection explores the nature of clothing and its power to mirror one’s inner world.
Motifs of Eden echo through embroidered flowers and leaves, golden accents, beaded fringe, and soft ruffles — all reflecting the harmony between nature and temptation. Transparent lace, snakeskin patterns, and exotic floral prints add layers of symbolism.
The palette is grounded in earthy tones — sand, olive, muted gold — evoking serenity and sophistication. Morning looks for the city evolve into refined evening ensembles, while resort silhouettes intertwine with intellectual elegance.

IRO

Nicolas Roo revisits the architectural silhouettes and bold lines of the 1980s, while also drawing inspiration from the brand’s formative years (2005–2010), when rock chic and effortless attitude defined its DNA.
Loose blouses, draped layered dresses, fluid suits, and weightless parkas evoke a carefree holiday spirit. Mirror inserts, metal chains draping across the hips, and unexpected handmade details add texture and individuality.
Denim turns into delicate fringe, transparency becomes a new code of allure, and zebra prints shimmer in vibrant tones. Low-rise waists are cinched with origami-style leather belts, and tailoring embraces comfort through a relaxed cut. Deconstructed tops and tees morph into asymmetric dresses with sharp shoulders — celebrating freedom of movement.

Romeo Stedman Mouras

The collection — aptly titled Theft of Essence — became an act of artistic retribution: a quest to reclaim lost identity through texture, gesture, and memory. Each piece — a dress, corset, or accessory — exists as an artifact of personal archaeology, embodying rebellion and transformation.
Hand-pleated corsets seem to preserve memories, while multilayered skirts balance fragility and tension. Lace transforms into a metaphor for freedom born from constraint. Deconstructed menswear elements — repurposed from discarded garments — find new life, while sculptural hats symbolize inner metamorphosis.
Every garment is created ritualistically: pleated, painted, torn, stitched — all by hand. There’s no trace of industrial precision here, only intuition, imperfection, and human warmth.

Elie Saab 

Elie Saab sets his gaze toward new horizons, blending innate glamour with effortless confidence.
Tailored precision meets flowing fabrics, creating harmony between structure and movement. Classic suits are paired with platforms, while opulent jacquard gleams in bronze undertones.
The color story recalls treasures unearthed during travels: nude, umber, saffron, and stone come alive on silk, leather, and cotton. Snake prints and polished python motifs — from sleek trenches to airy chiffon dresses — embody a confident, urban sensuality.
Accessories complete the narrative: soft totes, miniature baguettes, and belts with sculptural buckles. Touches of yellow and crimson revive muted hues, echoing the pulse of the city.

Barbara Bui

Barbara Bui returns to her timeless codes — impeccable tailoring and a rock-inspired edge.
At the heart of her collection stands the jacket: the brand’s signature, the architecture of the body, a symbol of strength and freedom.
As Bui explains, every seam and line is designed to reveal the rhythm of movement and confidence. The collection unfolds in two chapters: the first — crisp white silks, linen, and cotton — embodies morning light and ease; the second — warm, sun-drenched materials — reflects the depth of craftsmanship and atelier energy. Sculptural jackets serve as the ultimate expression of the brand’s savoir-faire.

ArdAzAei

Here, structured tailoring meets soft fluidity — with a new focus on knitwear and denim.
Powdery pinks, lilacs, beige, and black define the palette, shaping airy ruffled tops, form-fitting skirts, and flowing dresses.
Elegant tailoring highlights architectural silhouettes, while denim symbolizes freedom in refined embroidered forms. The evening chapter introduces draped silk gradients and demi-couture pieces that transition seamlessly from day to night.
With this collection, ArdAzAei steps toward universality — where each garment becomes an extension of the modern woman’s individuality.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin 

Ludovic de Saint Sernin turns to his aristocratic heritage — not to revive hierarchy, but to build a new community united by authenticity and self-expression.
Among the muses were Emma Chamberlain, Alexa Chung, Sebastian Croft, and Corey Fogelmanis — together representing a modern nobility defined by courage, not lineage.
The brand’s signature corsetry, lacing, and lacework return lighter than ever — rendered in sheer cottons, silks, and flowing drapes. Masculine and feminine intertwine fluidly.
Blazers inspired by ceremonial uniforms shed their stiffness; dresses glide naturally; trousers reveal lace cutouts like subtle whispers of intimacy.
The palette converses with history — deep purples suggest hidden strength, while faded ivory evokes the powdered wigs and rococo salons of old. Yet this is no reconstruction: tradition becomes a springboard for modern self-expression.

Dice Kayek 

Dice Kayek redefines everyday elegance through volume, geometry, and playful polka dots.
Ece and Ayşe Ege sculpt architectural silhouettes with airy skirts and balloon sleeves, balancing structure with lightness.
Sharp mikado lines, embellished details, and a black-and-white palette express mature, confident femininity — with a touch of wit.
Their mastery of craft turns rigor into grace, and precision into poetry — the very essence of contemporary refinement.

Juozas Statkevicius

The Lithuanian designer transforms fabric into a living matter that speaks the language of light, texture, and motion. Silk flows or holds its shape, taffeta echoes the rhythm of a step, and modern synthetics lend graphic sharpness and lightness.
Contrasts between matte and gloss, density and transparency, create hypnotic harmony where comfort meets sophistication. The palette — warm and sunlit, with spicy undertones — feels infused with the scent of summer. Minimal silhouettes reveal meticulously refined details that highlight natural femininity and quiet strength. According to fashion insiders, Statkevicius delivered a truly timeless collection.

Photographs courtesy of the brands’ PR teams.