Creative director – the conductor in the conceptual orchestra of a brand

Most people know designers as the face of a brand, but not everyone knows who is behind the creative ideas, branding, reputation, and concept of a fashion house. The creative director is the “gray cardinal” of the creative industry. This person formulates strategy, gathers and inspires the design team, and ensures the design concept follows a unified idea.

The role of a creative director is one of the most responsible in the fashion industry. This individual bears the immense responsibility of presenting the brand correctly and organically to the world. The role is as crucial as overseeing design or the actual production of clothing.

One of the primary tasks of a creative director is to bring fresh vision to the concept of the fashion house while preserving its philosophy and rich heritage. Their duties include not only creating collections but also positioning the brand globally through communication channels, ambassadors, advertising campaigns, and collaborations.

When appointed to the top creative position, the designer becomes a part of the history and image of the fashion house, gaining a direct association with it.

Karl Lagerfeld

Who do you associate Chanel with, aside from Gabrielle Chanel? With Karl Lagerfeld. The Chanel fashion house is known for its consistency and stability. It’s no surprise that Karl worked as the creative director for 30 years. Lagerfeld continually amazed the public with vibrant shows and unconventional locations while maintaining the identity of the Chanel brand. In addition to his eponymous brand, Karl was also the creative director of Fendi.

Photo: Spotlight

Photo: Spotlight

Maria Grazia Chiuri

Historically, most creative directors have been men. This was also the case at the Dior fashion house until Maria Grazia Chiuri took over in 2015. One of her memorable gestures early in her career as creative director was the Spring-Summer 2016 collection dedicated to women. T-shirts with bold slogans like “We should all be feminists” and “Dio(R)evolution” marked the start of feminist inspiration for the Dior brand. Later collections included references to Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?” and themes inspired by goddesses with the motto “What if women ruled the world?”

Supporting gender equality through the Dior brand did not go unnoticed: in 2019, Maria Grazia Chiuri was awarded the Legion of Honour, a significant recognition of her outstanding contributions to France.

Photo: Spotlight

Photo: Spotlight

Photo: Spotlight

Olivier Rousteing 

The Balmain that everyone now knows and recognizes at a glance is the creation of the young, bold, and fearless Olivier Rousteing. In 2011, at just 24 years old, Olivier took over the Balmain fashion house. He already understood the power of social media and elevated both the brand and his account to new heights. Today, Balmain has 12.2 million followers, and Olivier himself has 10 million. Rousteing always emphasizes in interviews that being a creative director is not only about designing clothes for the runway but also about being the artistic director of each show and planning the brand’s close interaction with its audience. Olivier Rousteing made history in Parisian fashion as one of the youngest creative directors since Yves Saint Laurent.

Photo: Spotlight

Photo: Spotlight

Phoebe Philo

Many have heard of the phenomenon known as “old Céline.” It emerged because Phoebe Philo played a crucial role in the brand’s history and recognition, and her departure was a significant event in the fashion world. Phoebe’s designs for Celine always focused on comfort, minimalism, and impeccable quality. After leaving Céline in 2018, her fans were disheartened, did not accept the new creative director, Hedi Slimane, and created a separate Instagram page—Old Céline—which reflected the era of Phoebe Philo’s style. Her influence was also significant for Chloé after Stella McCartney. Under Phoebe’s direction, Chloé’s sales increased by 80%, and the brand gained a signature boho-chic style. The New York Times dubbed Philo the “Chanel of her generation.” Despite stepping down as creative director, she did not end her fashion career. In the fall of 2023, Philo launched her eponymous clothing brand. Headlines in various media were emblazoned with the phrase “Old Céline, but better,” and the designer did not disappoint her fans, continuing to adhere to her core principles: simplicity, minimalism, and high-quality execution.

Photo: Spotlight

Photo: Spotlight