High Jewelry

Alongside the haute couture runway shows, presentations of high jewelry collections take place. Leading maisons unveil exclusive pieces handcrafted from the finest materials. These unique creations embody luxury and timeless tradition.

One of the most notable trends remains transformable jewelry – far from new, but still evolving. Brands continue to offer pieces that can be modified and reassembled: for instance, a pendant on a necklace can easily become an earring or a brooch. Semi-precious stones like tourmalines, amethysts, and citrines also find their place in new lines. Jewelry houses are turning to their archives to reinterpret historical pieces with a contemporary vision. While technology plays a supporting role in creation today, it is the hand-finishing that imparts uniqueness.

Below are the most striking High Jewelry collections of the Fall-Winter 2025–26 season:

Boucheron 

Claire Choisne, Creative Director of Boucheron, continues to push boundaries with the 2025 Carte Blanche collection titled Impermanence. Inspired by the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi and the art of ikebana, she creates jewelry masterpieces that capture fleeting beauty. The collection includes six botanical ensembles, each symbolizing a stage of nature’s cycle – from full light to the darkness that signifies completion. Craftsmen dedicated over 18,000 hours to these exquisite pieces. Each composition is transformable: brooches become hair accessories, flowers turn into rings or bracelets, and insects transform into miniature sculptures. For instance, composition No. 6 combines a tulip, eucalyptus, and dragonfly. Delicate borosilicate glass is juxtaposed with diamonds and sapphire glass. Composition No. 4 captures the essence of morning air through cyclamen, oats, a caterpillar, and a butterfly. Snow-set diamonds and black lacquer evoke a play of light and shadow. The collection concludes with composition No. 1 featuring poppy, sweet pea, and a butterfly. The transparency of the petals, meticulously inlaid by hand, highlights the lightness of the flowers, while the contrast of black lacquer adds depth and intensity.

Messika 

To mark the 20th anniversary of her brand, Valérie Messika unveiled Terres d’Instinct. The high jewelry pieces are dedicated to Southern Africa – its landscapes, wildlife, and the play of primal light. During a journey through Namibia, Valérie was struck by the scenery: the flaming dunes of Namib, shimmering minerals of the Kalahari, the power of the cheetah, and the majesty of the lion. Graphic lines, layered volumes, and sharp settings give the impression that nature itself sculpted these pieces. The Kalahara necklace showcases two exceptional yellow diamonds, the largest weighing nearly 35 carats. Its transformable design allows it to be worn four different ways. The Mirage design mimics the breath of the desert – matte gold curves with diamond inlays evoke a horizon mirage. In Fauve, the predator’s force is conveyed through bold notches, as if golden surfaces were clawed open to reveal glimmering diamonds. Valérie emphasizes contrasts: black onyx paired with baguette diamonds creates a rhythmic dialogue, forming sculptural compositions centered around two shield-cut diamonds. For the first time, Messika incorporates colored gemstones into the line: sapphires, rubies, emeralds, spinels, and garnets. A key highlight is the reimagined Divine Enigma set featuring a 30-carat Zambian emerald. Messika’s artisans showcase a range of cuts and settings, from snow pavé to halo mountings. Each set reflects the philosophy of “freed style,” where luxury is no longer static but seamlessly integrated into life.

Graff

In homage to the era that marked the beginning of Graff’s history, the house introduces its new high jewelry masterpiece – collection called “1963”. This refined parure serves as an ode to the free spirit and bold aesthetics of the vibrant 1960s, a time of cultural revolution and daring change. The central theme is the hypnotic play of oval shapes, referencing the psychedelic patterns of the decade. The collection includes an elegant necklace, a graphic bracelet, and striking earrings, all adorned with 7,790 diamonds totaling over 129 carats. Oval, baguette, and round-cut stones create mesmerizing plays of light, forming near-kinetic architectural compositions. Hidden within each piece is a delicate line of emeralds set in white gold – a subtle nod to Graff’s signature hue. This secret accent adds a special energy to the ensemble, contrasting beautifully with the icy brilliance of the diamonds. The collection symbolizes the brand’s journey, its evolution, and pursuit of perfection. According to François Graff, it is one of the most complex and ambitious parures the company has ever produced.

Mellerio

The world’s oldest jewelry house and a symbol of Place Vendôme in Paris, Mellerio unveiled Jardin des Rêves. Inspired by the dream of feeling like royalty, even for one evening, Mellerio created an elegant set that merges centuries-old tradition with modern fantasy. Jewelers wove a lace of precious stones into gold, crowned with a pineapple – the “king of fruits” – which can transform from a necklace pendant into a pair of luxurious earrings, showcasing the brand’s signature versatility. In the Bellezza Fiori line, Mellerio revisits archival brooches, transforming them into talisman pendants. Bellezza Fiore Rosa celebrates the wild rose, drawing inspiration from jewelry made for the Spanish royal family and the House of Savoy. The collection is completed with new talismans from the Cabinet de Curiosités series, where high jewelry meets effortless wearability. The Paon Medal revives the archival motif of the peacock – a symbol of immortality and divine light – first interpreted by Mellerio in the 19th century.

Chanel 

Inspired by the magic of the golden hour, Chanel presented its latest high jewelry collection. Patrice Leguéreau and the brand’s jewelry studio captured that fleeting moment at sunset when the world stands still between day and night. The Reach for the Stars collection offers a poetic take on glamour, blending luxury with lightness and giving architectural forms newfound flexibility. The diamond takes center stage, highlighting three symbols dear to Gabrielle Chanel: the comet, wings, and the lion. Cascading gemstones dance on the skin like sunbeams on the horizon. The line includes dramatic chokers, open necklaces, voluminous brooches, and asymmetrical drop earrings. Bold rings, cuff bracelets, and elegant tiaras continue this dazzling symphony of light and form. The pieces come in classic black-and-white or with colorful gemstone accents, adding a contemporary edge. Chanel’s high jewelry is not only a reflection of style but also a declaration of freedom and self-expression.

Photos courtesy of the brands’ PR teams.