Pearl

A gift from the ocean, a symbol of purity and status – pearls have always been more than just adornment. They’ve inspired creators throughout history, appearing in Botticelli’s paintings and on the covers of Vogue.

Today, pearls have finally broken free of classical expectations — they are not only about elegance anymore, but also about freedom and bold sophistication.

A mystery born in the depths

Pearls have long been shrouded in mystery. Their origin remained unexplained for centuries, giving rise to myths in different cultures. In India, it was believed that the beads were dewdrops imbued with moonlight that fell into oyster shells. In Japan – the tears of mermaids and water nymphs. In Greece, these precious drops were linked to Aphrodite: the water dripping from her body turned into mother-of-pearl – pure, alive, sensual.

People went to great lengths to obtain them. To find a single perfect pearl required dozens, sometimes hundreds of dives. Ancient pearl divers plunged into great depths relying only on their breath and prayers. That’s why, for centuries, natural pearls were seen as near-mythical treasures: rare, precious, and – quite literally – retrieved from the depths.

From Cleopatra to Elizabeth Taylor 

In Europe, pearls long stood as emblems of power and privilege – their rarity made them unattainable to ordinary people. They adorned crowns and became part of legend. One of the most famous stories is that of Cleopatra, the Egyptian queen who, to impress Mark Antony, dropped a pearl from her earring into vinegar, waited for it to dissolve, and drank the mixture. It’s said she “swallowed the wealth of an entire province,” earning her a place in history for hosting the most expensive dinner of the ancient world.

Another legendary pearl is La Peregrina – “The Wanderer.” Discovered in the 16th century off the coast of Panama by an enslaved diver who was granted freedom for his find, the perfectly symmetrical pearl weighed over 50 carats. It was gifted to King Philip II of Spain and passed through the hands of Spanish royalty for nearly 250 years. Later, during the Napoleonic wars, La Peregrina made its way to England, and in the 20th century, found its place on Elizabeth Taylor’s neck: Richard Burton acquired it at auction for the actress, and Cartier created a necklace adorned with rubies and diamonds to showcase the gem.

The Mikimoto revolution 

By the early 20th century, natural pearls had become extremely rare: supplies were depleted, and the most valuable specimens cost more than diamonds. Everything changed thanks to Japanese entrepreneur Kokichi Mikimoto. He was the first to successfully cultivate a pearl by inserting a tiny nucleus into an oyster and letting nature complete the process. This innovation made pearls widely accessible: by 1905, cultured pearls began conquering the world.

The pearlescent strand finally left aristocratic jewelry boxes and began to walk the streets of fashion capitals, becoming a symbol not of status, but of style. Coco Chanel played a key role: in the 1920s, she popularized multi-strand pearl necklaces worn over simple black dresses. Icons of style followed her lead – Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Jacqueline Kennedy.

Pearl 2.0

Today, pearls are undergoing a fashionable rebirth: they’re no longer associated with the conservative image of a lady in a tweed suit. Designers have reimagined this gem – now everyone wears pearls, regardless of gender or style. Dior and Fendi featured pearl necklaces and chokers in their menswear collections, while Harry Styles, A$AP Rocky, Jaden Smith, and Lewis Hamilton have made them staples of their personal style. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel turned pearls into a full-fledged styling element – they appeared not just around the neck, but also on heels, in hairstyles, and on accessories.

Pearls are fashionable again, precisely because they no longer follow rigid rules. They’re just as appropriate with an evening gown as they are with a T-shirt or a punk leather jacket.

photо: Instagram/ Sophiebillebrahe

More than just adornment 

After a thousand years of myths, sacrifices, and royal legends, pearls have finally become truly democratic. Thanks to cultivation, they are no longer a rarity reserved for the elite – today, anyone can wear what was once only dreamed of. They’ve come a long way, but have stayed true to their greatest purpose: to be a symbol of timeless beauty.