The cut that changes everything

In the world of fine jewelry, the cut transforms a raw stone into an object of admiration. The cut sets the rhythm for light, defines the character of a piece, and unveils the natural beauty of the mineral. Each facet acts like a mirror, reflecting light rays and creating that mesmerizing sparkle.

Jewelry houses and independent artisans use cutting not only as a tool to amplify brilliance but also as a way to express the aesthetics of the time. Some cuts emphasize sharp lines and geometry, others evoke softness and romance, while some hint at vintage charm.

photo: instagram/graff

How cut transforms the stone’s perception

Without a cut, a gemstone remains dull, with its color and clarity hidden. Facets interact with light to create depth and play of tones. The more complex the cut, the more it affects how we perceive the stone: step-cut edges give a refined and composed look, while soft curves bring a dreamy, romantic effect.

The classic brilliant cut features 57 facets, designed to maximize light refraction. It embodies mathematical precision refined to perfection, making it a universally favored choice. However, there are many other shapes, each carrying its distinct character:

• Round (brilliant) – perfect symmetry and maximum sparkle;
• Princess – modern geometry with radiant flashes;
• Emerald – elegant steps that highlight depth;
• Pear – teardrop shape for dynamic elegance;
• Marquise – elongated form that visually enlarges the stone;
• Cushion – rounded corners with vintage flair;
• Radiant – a fusion of princess-cut sparkle and emerald-cut sophistication.

photo: instagram/chaumetofficial

Each shape interacts with light differently, creating a unique visual effect.

Cut as a reflection of its era

Throughout history, the gemstone cut has mirrored the tastes of different eras. In the 17th–18th centuries, the rose cut, with uneven, domed facets, was popular for its ability to reflect candlelight. During the Art Deco period, the precise lines of baguette cuts reflected the architectural style of the time.

Today, cutting techniques go beyond traditional symmetry. The trend leans toward organic shapes, unconventional forms, and a highly individual approach. Minimally treated stones preserve their natural texture, while imaginative cuts take center stage in fine jewelry collections. Colored sapphires, tourmalines, and citrines reveal new dimensions through creative faceting, bringing out the full depth of their hues.

photo: instagram/tiffanyandco

How to choose the right cut

The perfect cut depends on personal style and the desired effect. Sharp, angular shapes add boldness, while rounded cuts soften the look. It's also important to consider how the gemstone behaves under different lighting: daylight will emphasize clarity and precision, while evening light enhances sparkle.

photo: instagram/pomellato

Contemporary jewelry trends move away from universal templates, offering designs where the cut reflects the wearer’s personality. That’s the true value of a gemstone cut – not only to showcase beauty but to express mood, style, and the spirit of the moment.