The role of jewelry in cinema

In film, every detail of a character’s look has meaning, and jewelry is no exception. More than just an accessory, jewelry can symbolize status, reveal hidden desires, or reflect the inner world of a character. In some cases, a piece of jewelry becomes a key narrative element, foreshadowing a dramatic turning point or deepening the emotional impact of the story.

Glamour and loneliness

Holly Golightly (Audrey Hepburn) in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” (1961) is more than just a style icon – she is a character for whom jewelry plays a key role, reflecting her inner world. At the beginning of the film, the audience is introduced to one of the most iconic looks in cinematic history: a long black Givenchy dress, satin gloves, oversized earrings, sunglasses, and a multi-layered pearl necklace. This ensemble is the epitome of glamour, yet it also serves as a metaphor for a carefully constructed mask, concealing her deep loneliness.

The pearls she wears symbolize elegance and a longing for a luxurious life, yet they also represent a false sense of security. Holly’s obsession with Tiffany & Co. goes beyond a love for fine jewelry; she confesses that she visits the store whenever she feels anxious because its opulent, orderly atmosphere makes her feel as though nothing bad could ever happen there. For her, Tiffany’s is a symbol of the perfect life she desperately wants to attain.

photo: FILMICMAG

The symbolism of jewelry in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” unfolds by the film’s finale: Holly, whose life has been built on escapism and illusions, comes to realize that no string of pearls or dazzling diamonds can fill the emptiness within her. They were part of the mask she carefully curated, but they could never provide what she truly longed for – genuine connection and a sense of belonging.

The ring of power

One of the most defining elements of Don Vito Corleone’s look in “The Godfather” (1972) is his heavy signet ring. This accessory is more than just decoration – it serves as a visual marker of power. In mafia culture, such rings symbolize belonging to an elite circle, continuity, and absolute control over the situation. In the film, the ring carries the same weight – it is a symbol of authority that cannot be challenged.

The significance of the ring becomes even more apparent when Michael Corleone (Al Pacino) takes on his father’s mantle. When he slips on the ring, it marks a pivotal transformation – his final break from the past and the full acceptance of his new identity as the head of the family. In this world, accessories aren’t just decorative; they are markers of destiny.

photo: FILMICMAG

Following the film’s release, The Godfather’s aesthetic had a lasting impact not just on cinema but on fashion. Signet rings, once associated exclusively with mafia culture, became a statement accessory in the world of luxury fashion.

Jewels as a prelude to downfall

In Sofia Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette” (2006), jewelry becomes an integral part of the film’s visual storytelling. The lavish jewels adorning the young queen (played by Kirsten Dunst) symbolize her reckless indulgence in luxury, a lifestyle that ultimately foreshadows her tragic downfall.

Scenes filled with diamond necklaces, oversized bracelets, and ornate brooches emphasize the excessive opulence that defines Marie Antoinette’s world. These jewels serve as a metaphor for an illusionary existence, where outward beauty and splendor mask the growing tension and impending collapse of the monarchy. As France teeters on the brink of revolution, the stark contrast between the extravagance of Versailles and the harsh realities outside its gates becomes impossible to ignore.

photo: roxycinemanewyork

To bring jewelry opulence to life in Sofia Coppola’s film, costume designer Milena Canonero collaborated with the legendary Fred Leighton, which supplied $4 million worth of exquisite jewels, adorning every frame with royal luxury. The color palette of the jewelry perfectly complemented the soft hues of the costumes: pure white diamonds, deep turquoise tones, and candy-pink gemstones accentuated the image of the young queen – a fairytale figure destined for a tragic fate.

Jewelry in film is more than just a part of the costume design

It is a storytelling device that helps directors convey deeper meanings, reveal character development, and hint at future plot twists. Whether symbolizing power, desire, or fate, these glittering details play an essential role in the visual language of film. Next time you watch a movie, pay attention to the jewelry – it might tell you more about a character than their dialogue ever could.