Tubeteika: where and how to wear a national headwear

Tubeteika has been an important part of the Uzbek nation’s culture since the 18th century. In the past, people could not have gone to the streets without this headwear and now it is worn during the holidays. Tubeteika is also called “duppi”.

The form, pattern features, embroidery color, and purpose, just like chapan depends on the ethnical belonging. Tubeteikas are made of soft or hard fabric and are complemented with embroideries or beads.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE ANOR HOUSE PRESS SERVICE

Uzbek tubeteikas are divided into 6 types depending on the region. Among these, the most popular are the “Chust” tubeteikas, paying homage to the city of Chust nestled in the Fergana Valley. They are square-shaped and are distinguished by delicate white silk embroidery against a black background. Adorning the apex are four pods of peppercorn (kalampur), not merely decorative, but laden with symbolism, signifying vitality and warding off the evil eye. Along the lower edge, a black silk ribbon frames the tubeteika, overlaid with sinuous patterns in white thread, evoking notions of wealth and resilience. Bukhara tubeteikas with golden embellishments are as popular as chapans.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE KANISHKA HOUSE PRESS SERVICE

Women tubeteikas are primarily decorated with pomegranates, almonds, pepper, various flowers, and birds. Mostly they are made of velvet, silk, or brocade. Tubeteikas are garnished with beads, bright stones, tinsel, and fluffy brushes.

Modern girls wear tubeteikas on festive celebrations or secular outlets to bring a color touch to their outfits. Designers moved away from traditional decoration a bit – for instance, at Dildora Kasimova’s brand you can find tibeteikas fully embroidered with beads. Some shiny threads hand down from tubeteika and can be braided. The archive collection of hearwears can also be seen at Human House, Anor, Kanishka, and other local brands.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY THE DILDORA KASIMOVA HOUSE PRESS SERVICE