Woman for Women: what you need to know about Chemena Kamali from Chloé

The designer took the helm of the French fashion house, progressing from an intern, while never forgetting about herself and women's happiness

05 Jun 2024

A graduate of the London-based Central Saint Martins University, Chemena Kamali took charge of the French Chloé in 2024. Before her appointment, Kamali had worked alongside both Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller, the previous creative directors of Chloé. It’s worth noting that her journey began as an intern under Philo’s guidance.

Seven years prior to her notable appointment, Chemena worked as the director of women’s ready-to-wear clothes at Saint Laurent alongside Anthony Vaccarello. Currently, she succeeds Gabriela Hearst, with her initial works being the mid-season collection showcased in January and the Fall-Winter 2025 line.

In her comments regarding the appointment, Kamali confessed that her heart had always belonged to Chloé. Developing the legacy initiated by Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld in 1952 is a great honor for her.

According to the brand’s philosophy, Chloé is created by women for women, but without unnecessary conceptualization and intellectualization. The designer’s task was to delicately maneuver between work and personal life, transmitting values, simply observing women, getting inspiration from them, and creating clothes specifically for them. Indeed, she handled the challenge worthily: after the recent show, she devoted special attention to her son, embracing him amidst the applause.

«I do think that women—particularly at a more advanced stage of their career—face additional challenges that male designers do not. That moment of [deciding] to have a family or not is going to impact a woman’s career more than a man’s career», – said Chemena.

On the global stage, leadership positions in fashion houses are predominantly occupied by men. For women, reaching such heights has always been challenging. However, while openly expressing her sincere love for Karl and his era at Chloé, Chemena holds a special reverence for her predecessors. From Gabriela Hearst, she inherited a commitment to the environment. Chemena sees her mission as highlighting the warm and expansive soul of Chloé, uniting different generations of women.

In her debut collection, there’s a love for bohemian aesthetics and lightweight fabrics. Lace and ruffles coexist with flared jeans, leather jackets, and aviator sunglasses. Here, there’s a bit of each creative director of the house: the effortless allure of Phoebe, the overt playfulness of MacGibbon, and the silhouettes of Lagerfeld’s era.”

In May 2024, Chemena debuted at the Met Gala. Chloé’s designs graced the figures of Sienna Miller, Emma Mackey, and Zoë Saldana. Each of them appeared in lightweight silhouettes adorned with ruffles and lace, staying true to the motif of the debut collection.

The new head of the French house promises to praise women, supporting them at every age, with Chemena Kamali embodying the very essence of Chloé’s mission. 

05 Jun 2024
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