A fairytale world and Eastern influences at Milan Fashion Week

The next chapter of Milan Fashion Week immerses us in the atmosphere of the Californian coast and the aesthetics of the 1970s, alongside neo-bohemian sensibilities and traditional Azerbaijani craftsmanship. Sheer lace, silk fringe, soft volumes, sculptural tailoring and hand-block printing form the foundations of four distinctly different wardrobes. Romance meets leather and crisp shirts, beachside lightness contrasts with evening glamour, while stone is set against the fluidity of silk.

It is also worth noting that Starbucks continues to move beyond coffee culture, becoming part of Milan’s fashion landscape. In the fourth season of its partnership with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the brand transforms Roastery Milano into a meeting point for fashion, design and contemporary culture, hosting the DAILY MIRROR show.

Here is a closer look at the collections presented during the following days of Milan Fashion Week.

Nissa 

Guests were transported into the world of a secret garden, where the softness of nature meets sensuality and delicacy is balanced by inner strength. The silhouettes are defined by elongated lines, fluid draping, sheer textures and expressive details. Dresses accentuate the figure through open backs, asymmetric cut-outs and high slits, while preserving a natural freedom of movement. Lace, embroidery and sequins lend depth to the surfaces, while flowing satin evokes the movement of water. The colour palette brings together ivory and pearl, muted shades of pink, sage and moss green, deeper botanical tones and twilight blue, punctuated by black. Romantic elements acquire a contemporary sensibility: classic femininity becomes more liberated, while decorative details feel like a natural extension of each look. The interplay between precision and fluidity creates a wardrobe in which sensuality requires no overt expression and femininity is no longer associated with fragility. At its centre is an independent woman, for whom the garden is not merely a backdrop but a reflection of her own nature.

Photo: PR Nissa

Photo: PR Nissa

Photo: PR Nissa

Malo

Malo continues its exploration of knitwear, Italian craftsmanship and refined summer dressing with its The Architecture of Lightness collection. For the new season, the House embraces lightweight constructions, precise proportions and a more fluid relationship between clothing and the body. Fine knitwear, soft tailoring, outerwear and precious natural fibres form the foundation of the collection, reflecting Malo’s longstanding expertise. The palette combines sun-faded creams and natural tones with earthy browns, vibrant orange and ocean blue. Openwork knits, technical linen, silk blends and cashmere highlight the House’s focus on texture, quality and innovation. Lightweight forms and an expressive colour palette give summer dressing an effortless yet carefully considered character.

Photo: PR Malo

Photo: PR Malo

Anteprima 

The world of Alice in Wonderland, together with a spirit of curiosity and the desire to explore new perspectives, serves as the inspiration for the collection. Duality becomes its defining principle, expressed from the outset through two-tone footwear. Minimalist aesthetics meet soft femininity, as relaxed, almost boyish volumes, oversized silhouettes and geometric lines are juxtaposed with sheer fabrics, fluid draping and column-like shapes. A pale neutral palette is enlivened by brick, yellow and turquoise, while lace, pointelle knitwear, ruffles, sheer embroidery and petal-like volumes lend the looks a playful lightness. One of the season’s most poetic motifs is Rose Petal, echoing the fantastical garden in which the collection unfolds. Izumi Ogino also places particular emphasis on materials, experimenting with a specially developed blend of cotton, viscose and fusible nylon, while reimagining lace through the use of thermal lamination.

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Giada 

The porcelain floral compositions of artist Zuleika Melluish are brought to life through delicate embroidery. Giada’s collection unfolds within a contemporary urban and sensual context, with 30 looks seemingly immersed in a floral environment composed of 3,500 paper flowers. The minimalist constructions reveal an almost couture-level attention to tailoring, materials and detail, accentuating slender proportions and fluid silhouettes. The palette ranges from a distinctive white, poised between ivory and zinc, to citron yellow, champagne, desert rose and the deep hue of damp earth. Particular emphasis is placed on handcrafted two-tone silk fringes, versatile pieces that can be transformed into a skirt, train, necklace or stole. White shirts, leather and silky textures define a precise, structured wardrobe in which the body becomes part of the architecture, interacting with light. Sambac jasmine also finds its way into the accessories: necklaces, earrings and buttons evoke flowers fashioned from baroque pearls.

Photo: PR Giada

Photo: PR Giada

Photo: PR Giada

Daily Mirror

The changing rhythms of contemporary life and the blurring boundaries between urban environments and nature serve as the starting point for the new collection. The wardrobe is built around the brand’s signature precision tailoring, understated minimalism and carefully considered details. Functional elements borrowed from outdoor apparel introduce practicality and freedom of movement, while Daily Mirror’s tailoring tradition remains at its core, defined by clearly constructed silhouettes and impeccable structure. Minimalist forms meet layering, creating versatile solutions for different occasions. The contrast between structure and softness takes on a new expression through the interplay of sharp lines and more relaxed elements. The design team maintains a balance between functionality and the expressive precision of the cut, while remaining faithful to the brand’s distinctive aesthetic. Everyday dressing thus acquires a more adaptable character, bringing together practicality, structure and freedom of movement.

Photo: PR Daily Mirror

Photo: PR Daily Mirror

Photo: PR Daily Mirror

Ports 1961

Ports 1961 presents a wardrobe in which freedom of expression meets clarity and precision of silhouette. The The Neo-Bohemian collection explores a new vision of femininity through the natural interplay of contrasting codes — masculine and feminine, expressive and restrained. Particular attention is paid to the fluidity of the garments: soft volumes retain their definition, while silhouettes gain character through movement rather than excess. Sensuality emerges from the subtle interaction between fabric and body, expressed through transparency and fluid materials. This approach is rooted in the image of a woman who sees the culture around her not as a means of self-presentation, but as a source of personal impressions. Art, design, literature and architecture become part of her everyday experience, while observations, images, gestures and memories gradually form an individual visual language. The resulting garments become a natural extension of this language, guided not by the pursuit of novelty but by a personal sense of connection and familiarity.

Photo: PR Ports 1961

Photo: PR Ports 1961

Photo: PR Ports 1961

Kiton 

Precision tailoring meets freedom of movement at Kiton, where masculine and feminine elements coexist with rule-free elegance and room for individual interpretation. Traditional tailoring is given a lighter, more contemporary expression. Jackets, waistcoats and relaxed trousers reinterpret menswear codes through elongated proportions, soft construction and layering. Double-breasted designs are paired with weightless outerwear and quilted elements, while dresses and skirts introduce fluidity to the silhouettes. Particular attention is devoted to fabrics. Silk lends movement and lustre to shirts, wide-leg trousers and long dresses, while cashmere blended with silk creates soft, tactile knitwear. The colour palette moves from pale mineral blues and deep navy to white, ivory, beige, tobacco and chocolate brown. Powder pink, coral and vibrant fuchsia provide expressive accents, intensifying the interplay between delicate and more saturated hues. Geometric openwork embroidery and subtle artisanal details highlight the craftsmanship, while painterly stripes appear on coordinated sets, pyjama-inspired silhouettes and elongated kaftans. Navy and white, vertical stripes and sailing-inspired details feature across jackets, shirts, knitwear and functional outerwear, introducing a nautical dimension to the collection.

Photo: PR Ports 1961

Photo: PR Kiton

Photo: PR Kiton

Photo: PR Kiton

Blumarine 

The Blumarine team transports the House’s romantic aesthetic from the boudoir to the sun-drenched coast of California. The cinematic glamour of the 1970s meets the aesthetics of the early 2000s, creating a contemporary interpretation of the brand’s signature femininity. The pastel palette takes on a sun-faded quality, while soft, layered silhouettes balance airiness with sensual expression. Loungewear and lingerie-inspired pieces become integral to the daytime wardrobe. Plumetis tops are transformed into long negligees, mini dresses and blouses, while knitted leggings and tops embrace the figure like intimate apparel. This private, sensual aesthetic is balanced by sporty and beach-inspired references, including swimsuit-like cut-outs, varsity tops and relaxed surf jackets. Floral motifs, inseparable from Blumarine’s heritage, appear on bombers and cardigans, as well as sheer tulle and lace. Evening looks heighten the collection’s decorative appeal through ostrich feathers, crystal butterflies, oversized gemstones and silver floral embellishments. Completing the beach-inspired mood is a special version of UGG footwear, reimagined for the Blumarine show with metallic structures, crystals and feathers.

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Photo: Tagwalk

Dsquared2

In its new collection, Dsquared2 turns contrast into its principal expressive tool, bringing together sensuality, rebellion and religious symbolism. The mood draws on the feverish romance and rebellious youth of Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliet, the provocative aesthetics of 1980s pop culture and Italian traditions of religious devotion. The Dsquared2 woman deliberately rejects perfection, casting off conventions to reveal a more personal side of her character. Lingerie-inspired details are particularly prominent: lace emerges beneath bias-cut dresses and draped tops, while tailored suits acquire a provocative edge through revealing elements. Cropped jackets, plunging necklines and exposed midriffs disrupt the traditional formality of suiting. A tropical floral print in acid green and vivid pink takes centre stage, combining lush blooms with hearts and traditional tattoo-inspired imagery. Religious references receive an unapologetically bold reinterpretation: crosses adorn tops, rosary beads become straps on asymmetric dresses, while medallions and pendants embellish open sandals.

Photo: PR Dsquared2

Photo: PR Dsquared2

Photo: PR Dsquared2